Roger Schäli is known to many for his alpine masterpieces and historical inspections. However, Roger proves that he is also rock-solid on the rocks during his visit to Spain this year. He managed the ascent of the route Mind control (8c / +) in Oliana. LACRUX spoke to Roger Schäli about his sport climbing trip.
Since when are you in Spain?
Since November. Then I'm back in Switzerland in December to celebrate the historic route Metanoia on the Eiger. It was the first repeat since the first ascent by Lowe. Actually, I had on 28. On December I will fly to Patagonia to climb with Colin Haley. Unfortunately Colin had to cancel for health reasons and so I had not much left, as to climb again in Spain. So I went to New Year again south.
What were your goals and did you reach them?
Be fit for my summer projects, have fun and climb mind control.
In which areas have you been and where are you going?
Siurana, Chulilla, Margalef, Montsant, Santa Lynia, Terredets, Col de Nargo, Perles, Oliana and multi-pitch climbing at Face the Cascade.
You are known as a versatile mountaineer, now you seem to have several weeks of sport climbing to have prescribed. Why?
Because hard sports climbing is just awesome. Hard, warm and honest. And for big bigwall projects, I have to be fit and have the batteries full of sunshine.
How did you prepare for Spain? Do you have a coach?
Not specific. I was often climbing outside.
Why did you choose Spain?
I love the Spaniards and their open and heartfelt culture. And it has the best sports climbing areas for the winter and the best community.
Community is a good keyword. When climbing, you always need a rope partner. Do you just go to the area and everyone backs up or are you accompanied?
Mixed. Of course it is better to climb with a great friend. If that's not possible then I'm just going to be lucky.
What are you doing on rest days?
On rest days yoga or short jogging are on the program. Of course I also have to do office work.
How can we imagine the evenings? Is drunk beer drunk or drink all the smoothie and are veggies so they can maintain their body weight?
There are both. It also depends on which guys and girls you're on the way. Most of the time I adapt to their style. Because both have their good sides. but if you really want to climb your limit, then do not drink beer and unhealthy food for me.
How long will you stay?
Not for long. After Easter I will climb the Eiger together with a guest.
