At the third attempt it finally worked out: The extreme mountaineer Dani Arnold opens 2018 in February a new ice climbing route in the world-famous Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, Canada. Dani gives the name to the new route Power shrimp. This success is certainly the best gift for his 34. Birthday.
In order to climb the route, Dani first had to hack the path through the ice, and then use a drill to drill the hooks for securing it into the rock. After that, it was "only" to climb the route without falling, which proved to be more difficult than expected. "Unlike usual I was always slightly tense when climbing. I did not know if my ice ax was sticking and would not break it. Because it was more hard snow than ice ", so Dani about his adventurous ascent. "I also felt that my strength was not inexhaustible. The key point in the first pitch, a horizontal roof, I reached only after about 40 meters.
Drill hook with metal detector wanted
This is the third trip Dani Arnold has made to Helmcken Falls. The first time, the ice and weather conditions were so bad that he had to resort to other areas unrequited things, he failed the following year on the route of Will Gadd, which he wanted to repeat. But despite three days of searching with a metal detector after the bolts, they remained untraceable. Now, in the third year, the conditions and the decision to open up a new route were optimal. "Despite the setbacks and painful insights, this place has fascinated me so much that I have come back again and again. Sometimes it's worth it to stay tuned "explains Dani his success.
Ice climbing Eldorado in brittle ice
The Helmcken Falls are located in Wells Gray Provincial Park, a good 500 km from Vancouver in the Canadian province of British Columbia. At 141 meters tall, it is the fourth tallest waterfall in Canada. In winter they are an Eldorado for passionate ice climbers. The spray droplets, frozen in the freezing cold, have formed huge walls of ice and ice caves. While other waterfalls freeze over completely, the water in the Helmcken Falls still flows in the dead of winter. And so, unlike normal icefalls, the icicles grow thanks to the spray from the waterfall and not from the freezing of flowing water. As a result, however, the ice is so brittle that icicles break down permanently and the safety devices have to be anchored in the rock below the ice.
Free solo celebration end 2017
Dani Arnold is an internationally known extreme mountaineer and ice climber from Switzerland. His speed records on the Eiger and Matterhorn North Face in particular made him an international luminary. Most recently, he climbed to the end of 2017 Beta Block Super (LACRUX reported) in Kandersteg, Switzerland and defeated the route Free Solo in just 1h 03min.
Dani Arnold climbs one of the toughest ice climbing routes Free Solo Speed
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Credits: picture Thomas mustard, Text Mammoth Sports Group