Top American alpinists Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell conquer the extremely difficult north face of the 7000-meter Jannu in alpine style in eastern Nepal. In a continuous push, they climbed from the base camp through the 2700 meter high north face and back again over seven days. With their route Round Trip Ticket (2700m, M7, AI5+, AO), the trio achieved an alpinistic milestone.
The north face of the 7710 meter high Let's say is notorious and considered one of the most demanding in the world. Greats like Ueli Steck and Erhard Loretan tried it and had to return without success at the summit. Also the American trio Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell It took three attempts before her dream of an alpine style ascent became reality.
The 2700 meter high north face was one that raised many doubts and fears.
Alan Rousseau
Combined according to Alan Rousseau Round trip ticket (2700m, M7, AI5+, AO) several existing lines, including the Direct Line, with which the 10-person Russian team with the Piolet d'Or were awarded. The Russians climbed the north face of Jannu in 2004 in siege style with intermediate camps and fixed ropes.
Video: Russian expedition opens the Direct Line on the Jannu north face in 2004
Not so the three Americans. In a continuous push, they climbed from the base camp through the steep and complex north face and back again over 7 days. The hardest and steepest climbing spots were at an altitude of between 7000 and 7500 meters - the deepened section of the north face that had not yet been climbed.
In the end, we all did our part and climbed the wall in a style that we are very proud of.
Alan Rousseau
During their seven-day ascent, the trio conquered difficulties up to M7, AI5+, AO. Image: Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell & Jackson Marvell 
Airy bivouac on the 2700 meter high north face of Jannu. Image: Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell & Jackson Marvell 
The most challenging climbing spots were between 7000 and 7500 meters altitude. Image: Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell & Jackson Marvell
Here we experienced the most intense and beautiful mixed climbing we have ever had the pleasure of doing.
Alan Rousseau
Racing since the early 80s
The best alpinists in the world had been competing for the first ascent of the Jannu North Face since the early 80s. A large Japanese expedition team found the first way in 1976. However, their line on the left part of the wall avoided the steep headwall.
According to the American Alpine Club, the only alpine-style ascents date back to a Dutch team in 1987 (with two members having an accident on the descent) and to the French alpinist duo Erik DeCamp and Pierre Beghin in the same year. In 1989, Slovenian Tomo Česen claimed to have climbed the north face single-handedly, but this was doubted by many.
The strong Swiss alpinists Ueli Steck and Erhard Loretan attempted the Jannu north face twice, but had to leave Nepal in 2002 and the following year - together with Stephan Siegrist and Frederic Roux - without reaching the summit.
That might interest you
- Trad first ascent on the north face of the Eiger: Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel open the Renaissance (30 SL, 7c)
- Dru north face: Tom Livingstone manages the first free ascent of the Voie des Guides.
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Credits: Cover picture Jackson Marvell