From August 4 to 9, 2025, Marc Toralles, Bru Busom, and Ruben Sanmartin opened a new alpine-style route on the 6.634 m high Yerupajá: "L'essència del compromis" runs along the east face and the east ridge.
The King of the Cordillera Huayhuash
Yerupajá is considered one of the most technically challenging 6.000-meter peaks in South America. For many decades, it was a massive, glaciated ice pyramid, requiring consistent steep ice climbing, perfect belaying techniques, good acclimatization, and excellent timing in terms of weather and ice conditions. The summit was very rarely climbed, mostly via the northwest ridge.
Retreat: impossible
The trio rated the route 6c+ and M6+. They climbed the steep, icy limestone face of the east face to the highly exposed ridge. This ridge presented a particular challenge, as there was no escape route. For four days, Toralles, Busom, and Sanmartin battled poor visibility and even worse snow conditions until they finally reached the summit.
The "essence of compromise"
During their descent via the south ridge, the three alpinists also "climbed" the somewhat smaller "pre-summit." By ascending the east ridge and descending the south ridge, they achieved the never-before-documented crossing of Yerupajá.
Nicknamed "The Butcher" due to its sharp ridges and extreme difficulty, the mountain has had only a sparse ascent history. The east ridge in particular is considered extremely challenging.
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Credits: Cover photo: Marc Toralles