"He seemed to fall endlessly – my heart stopped" | Winter ascent of Badile

2024 was a year full of ups and downs for the Swiss mountaineer Filippo Sala. Initial successes were followed by setbacks – but the year ended with an extraordinary ascent on the Badile.

A personal report from Filippo Sala

After a difficult phase in which I had to give up certain projects and my physical fitness just wouldn't return, I decided to take a break from the big walls. Instead, I devoted myself to sport climbing and recharged my batteries and motivation.

Christmas is just around the corner and, as has been the case for several years, it is my tradition to attempt a major climb. Last year it was the northwest face of the Pizzo Badile with the "Grande Dietro". This year I ask myself: "Why not climb the Badile again? And maybe this time via the north-east face?"

Filippo Sala and his two rope partners climb Cassin and Supercombo on the Badile Northeast Face. (Photo Filippo Sala)
Filippo Sala and his two rope partners climb Cassin and Supercombo on the Badile Northeast Face. (Photo Filippo Sala)

A close-knit team quickly forms

I immediately contact the locals in the valley to check the conditions and, indeed, the conditions seem to be fine. By chance, Olivier asks me if I have time between December 29 and 31. I suggest the Badile to him and he is immediately enthusiastic. He mentions that Marc is also motivated and so the team is set.

On the evening of the 28th, the two of them come to my house, and on the 29th December we set off for Bondo, where Luzi and Severin are waiting for us. They take us to the upper end of the Bondasca valley to shorten the approach to the Sacs Furä hut.

The imposing wall of the Badile. (Photo Filippo Sala)
The imposing wall of the Badile. (Photo Filippo Sala)

The Badile is truly a fantastic formation, one of the most beautiful in the world, and seeing the Badile so white is even more impressive.

The beginning of the adventure
After two hours we reach the hut. After a short break we set off again to reach the foot of the wall, create the track and deposit material. Fortunately there is little snow and after another two hours we are standing under the wall. The huge granite slab is impressive.

As always, the night is far too short, but the anticipation of climbing outweighs it.

We return to the hut to rest. After dinner we set the alarm for 3 a.m. The night is, as always, far too short, but the anticipation of climbing outweighs everything.

Filippo Sala climbing the Badile_Image Filippo Sala

In the light of our headlamps we follow the trail from the previous day. Although we cannot see the wall above us, we feel its presence - it depresses and motivates us in equal measure.

We reach the start at 5.30 am. By abseiling once we reach a large ledge from which the route begins. I start with a few easy pitches that take us quickly. We soon reach a crack (5b) and I switch to climbing shoes.

As I climb out of the crack, the first light of day greets me - and with it an unpleasant surprise: the next two pitches are covered with an unstable layer of snow. I hand the equipment over to Olivier while I put my mountaineering boots back on.

A dramatic moment
Olivier finds a bolt, clips it and continues to climb over the unstable slab. Just when it looks like he has made it, everything collapses beneath him. He falls - my heart stops. His fall seems endless.

He falls – my heart stops. His fall seems endless.

Luckily, Marc is alert and stops him in time. I'm frozen. But Olivier gets up and laughs as if nothing had happened. He finds an alternative line and reaches the next belay station. I take over again and lead us to the most difficult pitches of the route.

Ice climbing passage on the Badile. (Photo Filippo Sala)
Ice climbing passage on the Badile. (Photo Filippo Sala)

challenges and decisions
The key section (5c+) turns out to be even harder with a heavy backpack, cold hands and a lot of equipment. We continue climbing until we hit ice. Olivier takes the lead again and after five or six rope lengths we reach a large snowfield in the middle of the wall.

We discuss whether we should turn back, but Olivier decides to give it a try.

From here, it seems impossible to continue: thin ice covers the rocks and cracks, and installing mobile safety equipment is almost impossible. We discuss whether we should turn back. But Olivier decides to try. As I secure him, my heart beats faster - a mistake could be catastrophic.

The Triumph at the Summit
After a nerve-racking passage, we reach the last difficult pitches at 17 p.m. There are still 300 meters ahead of us, this time technically easy, but without any safety measures. Marc takes over the lead and at 21 p.m. we are standing on the ridge.

The bivouac box at Badile. (Photo Filippo Sala)
The bivouac box at Badile. (Photo Filippo Sala)

We don't reach the summit until 22 p.m. Exhausted but happy, we break out into cheers. The tension falls away and we enjoy the moment. The night in the tiny bivouac passes quickly and at daybreak we begin the descent. At 11:30 a.m. we reach the Bagni di Masino, where Max picks us up.

Filippo Sala and his climbing partners on the summit of Badile.

Once again, Badile has created a deep connection with me this Christmas. Thank you, Badile, for this gift - you are the most beautiful mountain in the world. See you again next year!

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: images and text Filippo Sala

News

Adam Ondra cracks 9A boulder Soudain Seul | Fontainebleau

Adam Ondra announces the successful ascent of the boulder Soudain...

“That was an absolute game changer for me” – Megos on breathing exercises

For around four years, breathing exercises have played a key role in the everyday life of top climber Alexander Megos. In this video, he reveals how breathing exercises help him climb better.

Dispute over Würzburg climbing hall Rock Inn escalates

As the Bavarian Broadcasting Corporation recently reported in a detailed report, the dispute over the Rock Inn climbing hall in Würzburg is becoming increasingly absurd. What's going on?
00:26:46

Magnus Midtbo takes creatine for 2 months – and becomes massively stronger | Self-test

Magnus Midtbo took creatine for the first time in his career and analyzed in a self-test what effect the dietary supplement had on his body.

Adam Ondra cracks 9A boulder Soudain Seul | Fontainebleau

Adam Ondra announces the successful ascent of the Soudain Seul boulder in Fontainebleau. Ondra is unsure about the level of difficulty. Details about the ascent in the video interview. He wanted to...

“That was an absolute game changer for me” – Megos on breathing exercises

For around four years, breathing exercises have played a key role in the everyday life of top climber Alexander Megos. In this video, he reveals how breathing exercises help him climb better.

Dispute over Würzburg climbing hall Rock Inn escalates

As the Bavarian Broadcasting Corporation recently reported in a detailed report, the dispute over the Rock Inn climbing hall in Würzburg is becoming increasingly absurd. What's going on?