It was a sweaty weekend for everyone involved. At 35 Grad, Lucia Dörffel from the DAV Saxon Mountaineering Federation and Max Prinz from the DAV AlpinClub Hannover in Dortmund won the titles in the German Championship in Bouldering. The video replay of the finals is below.
For a long time, it looked as if last year's champions could confidently defend their titles. But then things turned out differently and the audience saw a fascinating competition with surprising turns until the last boulder.
A finale like from a picture book
In the preliminary rounds it was for Alma Bestvater (DAV Weimar) and Yannick Flohé (DAV Aachen) quite according to plan: Sovereign stood both defending champion in first place and therefore went as the last starters in the final. Right on the first boulder, a complex vertical movement problem, Flohé did not really pick up and consequently did not score. In contrast to Max Prinz, who delivered a convincing Flash and sat down immediately at the top of the field. Alma Bestvater came into the race better. In the third attempt, she pulled the overhang to be climbed on the right with several knee clamps and in the meantime landed in second place behind Hannah Pongratz of the AlpinClub Hannover.
Unbelievable then, what the route setters around Christian Bindhammer and Jonas Baumann presented to the athletes and the audience in the second final boulders: For the ladies there was a balance problem of the extra class, which only Lucia Dörffel was able to solve, but right away, what brought her the lead , After all, Alma Bestvater made it to a daring jump to the top grip, which she missed by a hair's breadth. If you had succeeded this dynamo, the German championship might have gone differently.
The men had to deal with an overhanging stomach, which initially ran quite well for everyone. The sticking point of the boulder was also to climb the top grip from the side and not be shaken off by the already mentioned belly. Here several solutions were possible, and they were all presented to the delight of the audience. Once again, Max Prinz got away the first time and stabilized his leading position. In such cases one says well: He had a run.
The run continued. Although again a complex movement problem waited, this time in the strongly overhanging terrain, Max Prinz could not be stopped. As if inspired, he immediately recognized the right solution and also flashed the third of three boulders. It was clear: the title is no longer the Hanoverian. In the last boulder, it would only be about placing second and third. Unlike the ladies: their third final boulder, a strong, but quite obvious to climb overhang, almost all inspired. Before the last Boulder Lucia Dörffel, Hannah Pongratz, Alma Bestvater and Afra Hönig (DAV Landshut) still had chances for the title.
The best starting point had Lucia Dörffel: If she does not need more than two attempts, she would be the victory no more. She made it exciting: In the first attempt, she fell off. In the second attempt, however, she gathered all her strength and reached the top grip amidst the cheers of the roughly 400 spectators. Second and third place went to Afra Hönig and Hannah Pongratz. And then came Alma Bestvater at the very end: With a flash, she would be able to displace Afra Hönig from second place, and he was loose in their previous performance. However, she made a mistake on the first attempt and came to the top only in the second attempt. The fact that this little mistake cost her the entire podium and that she had to settle for fourth place shows just how high the power density of the ladies currently is.
For Max Prinz it was in the last Boulder nothing more. Actually. Nevertheless, he did not miss the chance to climb the fourth boulder right away and thus achieve the best possible final score: four tops in four attempts. However, his competitors had to make up the remaining podium places among themselves. In the race: Max Kleesattel from DAV Schwäbisch Gmünd, Martin Philipp from DAV Allgäu Kempten and Yannick Flohé, who was fourth at the time. Kleesattel took the top handle in the second attempt and hurried unassailable on podium place two, Kleesattel however patzte and reached only the zone rating. For Flohé, therefore, the way was clear in the direction of bronze - if he would create the Boulder. And then last year's winner showed all his class and flashed the thing.
Hexenkessel once different
In view of the impressive and exciting performance of the athletes, it was no wonder: the mood in the bouldering world of Dortmund could not have been better. And that, even though everyone was struggling with the heat. 35 Grad had it loose when the final went on stage. It was not much cooler in the semi-finals on Sunday morning and in qualifying rounds on Saturday. A significant part of the fact that the Dortmund audience was offered top-class sport at its finest, had the helicopter. Despite difficult conditions - see temperatures - they managed to conjure up spectacular, surprising and intelligent boulder problems on the wall. Whether flat or steep, dynamic or filigree, whether on tiny structures or large volumes - climbing techniques and climbing abilities of the most cutting edge were always in demand. The audience, one can confidently say, got offered bouldering at the height of time. Incidentally, the organization, which requires an event the size of a German marriage, ran smoothly. This is not least due to the team of the bouldering world, the helper team of the DAV Dortmund, the experienced referee team around chief referee Ferdinand Triller and the many other helpers and partners.
The finale in the video replay
The results in detail are available at www.digitalrock.de
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Credits: Text Deutscher Alpenverein, picture DAV / Thomas Schermer