Last we reported on Christof Rauch's inspection of the three-part the never ending Story in the Magic Wood and some 8er-Boulder, which he hooked off along the way. Now Christof proclaims the second ascent of The Story of Two Worlds (low start, 8c) in Cresciano, Ticino.
In the second week of January, the Tyrolean Christof Rauch still had to go on the ascent Sit the dagger (8b +), Bella luna (8b) and La pelle direct (8a +). The Story of Two Worlds he was denied, if only barely. Yesterday Christof not only announced the successful ascent of the Dave graham Testpieces, but also the commission of the low-start version of Dai Koyamada, which the Japanese judged with 8c +. "After climbng The Story of Two Worlds I checked out the moves of Dai Koyomada's low start. Since I was already tired I pulled on with no big expectations. Sometimes it seems like the key to success. After a bright of a fight I stand on top of this amazing boulder and nabbed the second ascent! "
Video of the 8c + inspection by Dai Koyamada
The low-start version of Dai Koyomada is probably not known to all, but the story behind it all the more exciting. In the year 2010 Dai repeated the test piece of Dave Graham in the bouldering area Cresciano in Ticino. What the Japanese did not know: He started higher on other holds than Dave. Dai was irritated and at the same time motivated not simply to repeat Dave Graham's line, but to make it even harder. Two years later, at the 22. March 2012, Dai Koyomada succeeded in the commission of The Story of Two Worlds low start, The version starts below Dave Graham's line and was rated Dai's 8c +. Christof Rauch does not confirm this degree and in his ticklist also specifies an 8c for the low-start. The details of this somewhat special story of Dai Koyamada can be found in the following video.
Pawel Jelonek's first 8c
Incidentally, Christof Rauch was not alone in Ticino. With him also the Pole Pawel Jelonek fiddled The Story of Two Worlds, Fueled by Christof's climb, Pawel also made short work (Dave Graham version) and climbed his first 8c boulder. Jelonek recorded his step-through in the following video.
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Credits: picture Florian Schmalzl