From the 11. to 21. August 2019 will be looking for the winners in the lead, speed, bouldering and Olympic combined in Hachioji, Japan, as well as the first tickets for the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo. The live streams for the competitions can be found below.
The world championship in Japan will undoubtedly be one of the toughest and most exciting competitions the climbing scene has ever seen. In addition to the four gold medals in lead, speed, bouldering and Olympic combined, the seven best women and men from the combined competition will be on the ticket Olympics solve 2020. There climbing is for the first time Olympic. Especially exciting: All athletes who would like to have a ticket to Tokyo must also compete in the three individual disciplines at this World Cup: These qualify for the combined qualification.
The DAV travels with four men and one lady to Japan, Austria with six-man squad. Switzerland in turn is with Petra Klingler, Sascha Lehmann, Anne-Sophie Koller, Andrea Kümin and Sofya Yokoyama represented at the World Cup.
Ladies: Is Janja Garnbret to defeat?
The women's field is very strong. A hot contender for a title is the reigning world champion in the lead, Jessica mushroom (AUT). In addition belong also Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and the Japanese Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka to the favorite circle. The absolute favorite status of the currently outstanding Slovene Janja Garnbret (SLO): She already won gold in the Olympic Combined and in Bouldering at the 2018 World Championships in Innsbruck. This year, she was crowned the World Cup Overall Winner in Bouldering with a perfect series. Therefore, the question arises: Who can beat Janja Garnbret, or is that even possible?
Gentlemen: Adam Ondra is coming
The four men also have strong competitors against them. There is for example double world champion Jakob Schubert (AUT): He won gold in the lead and in the Olympic Combined at the 2018 home World Championships in Innsbruck. Also probably the best climber in the world, Adam Ondra (CZE), has big Olympic ambitions. He sets the bar extremely high in lead and bouldering. And of course, no list of the strongest climbers in the world would be complete without the teams from Japan and Slovenia: The Slovenians include Anze Peharc, Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik to the favorite circle in bouldering, Domen Skofic is a lead professional. And the home team? It has the biggest names in the nation: Tomoa Narasaki, Kai Harada, Yoshiyuki Ogata and Kokoro Fujii, Harada won 2018 the Boulder World Championship, Narasaki this year's Boulder World Cup series, Fujii participated in the Combined Final of the 2018 World Championship (as did Narasaki) and Ogata took bronze in this year's Boulder Overall World Cup.
But they have nothing to do with the outcome of the Speed World Championship - as with the ladies. In no other discipline are the individual stars as separate as between speed and lead / bouldering. In speed discipline belongs the Iranian Reza Alipourshenazandifar to the absolute top: He is defending champion and world record holder. But also Bassa Mawem (WOMAN), Vladislav Deulin (RUS), Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) and Alfian Muhammad (INA) are among the front runners.
Click here for the complete list of participants.
This is how the World Climbing Championship in Hachioji works
- In each individual discipline a medal set for the ladies and gentlemen is awarded
- The ranks of the 3 individual disciplines are multiplied. This results in a number of points (eg 3 x 10 x 20 = 600)
- The best 20 female and 20 female athletes qualify for the combined competition (no quotas) and compete again in all 3 disciplines
- The ranks of the 3 individual disciplines are multiplied
- The best 8 female and male athletes qualify for the final of the combination in all 8 disciplines
- The combination also awards a medal set for the ladies and gentlemen
- The best 7 athletes and 7 athletes qualify for the 2020 Olympic Games (note the national quota)
The program of the World Climbing Championships in Hachioji
Sunday 11. August 2019 - 03.00:08.05 - XNUMX:XNUMX a.m .: Qualification women bouldering
Monday, 12th August 2019 - 03.00 - 08.40 a.m .: Qualification bouldering men
Tuesday, 13th August 2019
02.00 - 04.15 Watch: Semi-Final Bouldering Ladies
05.45 - 08.00 watch: semifinal bouldering men
09.45 - 11.15 Watch: Finale Bouldering Ladies
13.00 - 14.30 Watch: Final Bouldering Men
Wednesday, 14th August 2019 - 03.00 a.m. - 12.45 p.m .: Qualification lead women and men
Thursday, 15th August 2019
04.00 - 06.30 Watch: Semifinals Lead Ladies and Gentlemen
12.00 - 13.00 Watch: Final Lead Ladies
13.00 - 14.00 Watch: Finale Lead Men
Saturday, 17th August 2019
05.30 a.m. - 09.00 a.m .: Speed qualification (first women, then men)
10.30 - 11.30 watch: Finale Speed (first ladies, then men)
Sunday, 18. August 2019: Combined Qualification Ladies
04.00 - 04.25 Clock: Speed
04.55 - 07.10 Clock: Bouldering
09.10 - 10.50 Clock: Lead
Monday, 19. August 2019: Combined Qualification Men
04.00 - 04.25 Clock: Speed
04.55 - 07.10 Clock: Bouldering
09.10 - 10.50 Clock: Lead
Tuesday, 20. August 2019: Combined Final Ladies
09.30 - 09.55 Clock: Speed
10.25 - 12.05 Clock: Bouldering
12.35 - 13.15 Clock: Lead
Wednesday, 21. August 2019: Combined Final Men
09.30 - 09.55 Clock: Speed
10.25 - 12.05 Clock: Bouldering
12.35 - 13.15 Clock: Lead
Live streams of the World Climbing Championships in Hachioji
Semi-finals bouldering women - Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 02.00 a.m. - 04.15 p.m.
Semi-finals bouldering men - Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 05.45 am - 08.00 am
Final women's bouldering - Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 09.45am - 11.15am
Final men's bouldering - Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 13.00 p.m. - 14.30 p.m.
Semi-final lead women and men - Thursday, August 15, 2019, 04.00 a.m. - 06.30:XNUMX a.m.
Final lead women and men - Thursday, August 15, 2019, 12.00 p.m. - 14.00 p.m.
Final Speed (first women, then men) - Saturday, August 17, 2019, 10.30 a.m. - 11.30 a.m.
Combined Women Final - Tuesday 20th August 2019
- 09.30 - 09.55 Clock: Speed
- 10.25 - 12.05 Clock: Bouldering
- 12.35 - 13.15 Clock: Lead
Combined Men final - Wednesday 21 August 2019
- 09.30 - 09.55 Clock: Speed
- 10.25 - 12.05 Clock: Bouldering
- 12.35 - 13.15 Clock: Lead
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Credits: Text DAV / SAC, cover picture Eddie Fowke / IFSC