The German climber Fabian Buhl can finally hook under his long-term project of the 8c-Boulder Le Boa put.
Fabian describes the project planning process as follows: “Working a boulder close to my limit, was frustrating from time to time, but I was happy about the slightest improvemts I did on the individual moves. These and the beautiful snakelike structure of the wall, gave me enough motivation in order to not give up this 3 year long battle. Finally this spring I had the right mindset and the special conditions that made it possible for me to get the first repeat of this amazing line. "
First repetition since the commission by Fred Nicole in the year 2011
With the commission of Le Boa Not only does Fabian Buhl secure an ultra-hard boulder in his route book, but he also gets the first iteration of a line that was first played by bouldering father Fred Nicole six years ago.
Not a breeze for Fred Nicole
Not only Fabian describes the boulder as a long-term project. Fred also commented on his first ascent in 2011 with similar words: “It was one of those long-term projects, which you never know if it will go for sure. I started trying it two years ago. It was just after completing L'Isola che no c'é. I enjoy having this kind of projects where you can go back over and over again, and slowly, try after try, you start to visualize the complete picture of it.
Strong and long trains
Who can change the character of Le Boa explain better than Fred Nicole? No one. Hence his words here: “It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called Mosaik, rated V11 or 8A. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line.
Fred Nicole exceptionally reviews his first ascent
Fred Nicole does not give any more ratings for his heavy inspections. at Le Boa however, he made an exception. The boulder feels very much like 8c, because it is the hardest boulder he ever made holes in. That means something.
Our last message about Fabian Buhl
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Credits: Picture: Stefan Smurf
[…] In the summer of 2017 he let himself be heard with the inspection of Le Boa (8c), a Fred Nicole test piece (LACRUX reported). His latest coup: Fabian manages the triple ascent of the three highballs Ambrosia (8a), Too […]