Flo Wientjes: “By climbing Floatin I fulfilled a big dream”

The strong German boulderer Flo Wientjes repeats Floatin (8C+) on Mt. Mizugaki. He specifically prepared for Ryuichi Murai's explosive maximum strength test piece for three months. It took him five sessions on site to decipher the features of the previous Launch Pad Project.

Flo Wientjes crowns his trip to Japan with the ascent of the 8C+ boulder floatin. The short and maximally powerful line on a 35-degree overhanging granite block was first climbed in 2021 by the Japanese Ryuichi Murai.

I feel so relieved and so happy that all the effort I put into making this dream come true was worth it.

Flo Wientjes
Flo-Wientjes-climbs-8C+-Testpiece-Floatin
Flo Wientjes in Floatin (8C+), one of the most difficult boulders in Japan. Image: Xaver Quintus | xaverquintus.net

Floatin (8C+): “Pure power bouldering”

Flo Wientjes enthuses that he has been fascinated by this line on Mt. Mizugaki since Ryuichi Murai's first attempts.

Floatin is pure power bouldering. Five hard pulls in a bare 35 degree granite overhang

Flo Wientjes

The line contains two complex and very intense key points that had already demanded everything from the first climber, Ryuichi Murai. He, the bouldering specialist accustomed to success, had to be patient for several seasons before he could complete his Launch Pad Project.

Flo Wientjes achieved success on site quite quickly. It took him five sessions until he could string all the moves together and find himself on top of the block. The 28-year-old attributes this to his meticulous preparation before the trip.

I invested a lot in special training in the last three months before the trip.

Flo Wientjes

Video: Ryuichi Murai on the first ascent of Floatin

Success is on the horizon

Flo Wientjes had a pretty successful start to the new year this year with Dreamtime (8C). A little later he doubled down with From dirt grows the Flower (8C). The first early highlight of the season followed at the end of February with Off the Wagon low (8C+).

In the summer, with Mystic Styles (8B+), he created a short and strong line that suits his taste. Practice of the wild (8B+) in Magic Wood and Iron Sit (8C) in Malta Valley followed in the fall. Given this cadence, it is only somewhat surprising that Flo Wientjes was able to repeat the mega line Floatin on Mt. Mizugaki.

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Credits: Cover picture Xavier Quintus | xaverquintus.net

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