The Italian Gabriele Moroni proved last Saturday that he has the necessary power and nerves of steel. Ingredients that are essential for the celebration of the 29dots highball in the Valle dell'Orco.
The highball 29dots was first climbed by Bernd Zangerl two years ago. The effective ascent of 29dots was a fairly spontaneous affair, as Bernd Zangerl reveals: “I thought long before how I should approach the highball, then I just grabbed two crash pads, took another deep breath and a short time later I was First to climb the 29 dot. Certainly one of the greatest moments in my career. "
Checked out for the first time in miserable conditions
Years ago, the huge block attracted Gabriele's attention. "When I heard about Bernds climbing this thing I was kind of shocked, still not having the idea of highball climbing," says Gabriele. Nevertheless, he tried the line in top rope on a hot summer day - to no avail. Last Saturday the 29-year-old dared a second attempt, this time in far better conditions: “Last Saturday was completely opposite, cold and windy, perfect for the crimpy style of the climb. I rapped down and tried the moves a couple of more times.
Successful boarding without rope
After the first attempts on the rope, two friends of Gabriele showed up. Encouraged by them, the Italian dared to try without a rope - and to his own surprise climbed the highball in this very attempt.
Different rating
Bernd Zangerl gives his website a degree of difficulty of 8b for 29dots at. During the ascent in 2015, Bernd said it was “probably his most difficult ascent in this style.” Gabriele now suggests 8a +: “My guess, having climbed or put up a good number of hard highballs around the world, is 8A +! The hardest part is the first 6 / 7meters, but you better not to fall down from the second, easier but still serious half. "
Video about Gabriele Moroni's ascent of 29dots
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Credits: Picture Gabriele Moroni