The Swiss boulderer Giuliano Cameroni manages the fourth ascent of the sit-start version (8c +) of the ultra-classic Off the Wagon in Val Bavona.
Giuliano Cameroni stands almost symbolically for the further development of the Ticino bouldering areas. He has climbed countless lines for the first time, mostly very difficult bouldering problems in the recent past. There were also short and demanding sport climbing routes.
During all this time, however, an existing line in the Val Bavona: Off the Wagon. The boulder was made with the movie Dosage Chris Sharma world famous. The original version (8b +) was first used in November 2012 Nalle Hukkataival. The start is "standing" on an old wooden cart that gave the boulder its name.
In November 2018, the American succeeded Shawn Raboutou then the first ascent of the seated start version of the boulder. At that time it was the first 8c + boulder in Switzerland. A year and a half passed before the seat start version was repeated. It was again two Americans who climbed the 8c +, Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods.
Profound experience for Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni also designed the line again and again, often together with Shawn, Jimmy and Daniel. Until recently, there was never enough for the ascent. Accordingly, the time of project planning was marked by ups and downs.
After some time on the same block, new perspectives / feelings developed. On the one hand, you're frustrated, especially when it doesn't work out. On the other hand, there is a stronger connection with the place and the rock - it almost becomes a love story.
Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano knew every smallest structure of the individual handles through years of project planning and he recognized how important it is not to project "convulsively", but to have fun with the next attempt.
This realization got me into a kind of flow - without negative thoughts or fear of falling.
Giuliano Cameroni
Although he found this flow, he didn't make it to the final handle. Despite this "failure", he didn't get angry, but began to laugh. On the next attempt he managed to get through.
I knew that I was finding the right way to crack the boulder.
Giuliano Cameroni
Climbed for the first time without a wooden cart
The wooden wagon under the monumental block has always been left as a starting point. This also applies to the seat start version. Giuliano put this car away for his inspection and climbed off standing on the handles of the seated starter version.
Jimmy Webb climbing through Off the Wagon sit (8c +)
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Credits: Cover picture Rainer Eder