Giuliano Cameroni spent several months in Rocklands, South Africa this summer. At the end of his stay, he got two hard boulders. On the one hand, he climbed The smile (8c first ascent), as well as the historic Boulder Black Eagle (8c, third ascent).
In the first ascent of The smile The Swiss invested a lot of time for his circumstances. "I found this amazing wall two years ago together with Samuel Ometz and tried it for the first time this season. The first session went super bad and I could not do any of the hard moves ", Giuliano explains in an interview. He let the project rest and focused on the many other blocks in the Rocklands. After a few weeks, he returned in better conditions, which paid off: "The crux moves better than before! I needed two more days to do the hard-booster (a dynamic lock off the crimp to the right eye) and four more to send the whole boulder. He said he was delighted to hear that he had a real mental battle.
The mental fight comes to an end
As a review for the new creation there The smile mentions Giuliano Cameroni 8c, but adds that this is his toughest visit. Accordingly, he describes emotionally the feeling after the successful ascent: "When I finally held the lip to immense joy surrounded me: the battle was over and the boulder was done! I feel that I have learned a lot about this experience, and the boulder itself taught me a lot about climbing in general. Few months later I'm still a contender for the best problem in the world! Now it's time to move on, projects await! "
Almost two 8c boulders in one day
Just over a week after the first ascent of The smile he succeeded in the third ascent of Black Eagle, The 8c boulder was made by Dave graham first time and from Daniel Woods first repeated. On the day of the commission of Black Eagle Giuliano continued to pull Monkey Wedding and wanted to give this 8c classic a visit. Just before the exit but then it was over and he fell out of the Boulder.
Giuliano Cameroni on the Black Eagle (8c)
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Credits: Pictures Oliver Krueger