The Olympic bronze winner is on the rock again ... and how! He flashes the Silvretta Tespiece Anam Cara (8b +) and is then also successful in Memento (8b / 8b +) - despite a painful incident.
Heavily overhanging on crimps through a roof and finally a dyno from underhand position on the edge: that is the Silvretta test piece Anam Cara, first climbed in 2008 by Bernd Zangerl and rated 8c. Meanwhile, after over a dozen repetitions, the grade has leveled off at 8b +.
What Jakob Schubert succeeded, however, has not yet been achieved: a straightforward flash ascent of the boulder. Then he put on hand in Memento (8b / 8b +), also a Zangerl boulder. Here Schubert needed a little more attempts to get through, where he landed painfully next to the mat once.
Jakob Schubert during Anam Cara's flash inspection
First ascended by Bernd Zangerl
In 2008 the Austrian Bernd Zangerl said after Anam Cara's successful climb: “The line is a dream. So logical, clear, without compromise ... Every movement is hard and this crazy undercut move upwards is the most brutal thing I've ever done. Anam Cara is the highlight of my climbing career and the ascent was like a dream come true. ”He gave the rating 8c, later the boulder was downgraded by Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods, among others.
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Credits: @ misha.p_photography