It's no secret: Ticino has had perfect climbing conditions for a long time. This was used by various pros to score heavy lines. We show the videos of the most recent inspections.
So Dave Graham and Clément Lechaptois got the fourth and fifth ascent of Roadkill (8c). Nils Favre from western Switzerland gets Tomba (8b+) and Heritage (8b) as well as General Dissaray (8b) and Casavino (8b+) on one day each. Here are the videos of the inspections.
As far as climbing is concerned, the Swiss Sonnenstube has been showing itself from its best side for almost two months: bright weather and ideal temperatures. The pronounced dry period ensures that rows of heavy boulders are cracked. On the other hand, the forest fires on Monte Gambarogno in early February show that nature urgently needs rain.
Video: Dave Graham and Clément Lechaptois commit roadkill (8c)
The American Dave Graham has been in Ticino for a long time and enjoys the immense variety of granite. Likewise the 28-year-old Frenchman Clément Lechaptois. The two got the 4th and 5th ascent of the 8c line in December Roadkill, first ascended from Shawn Raboutou.
Dave Graham describes that due to the height of the boulder, roadkill no longer felt like a physical challenge, but more like a mental one. At the moment of boarding, however, his focus sharpened as if of its own accord: "My fears disappeared, I breathed my way through the flat exit trains and then I stood at the top, relieved, confirmed and deeply satisfied."
"At the moment of boarding, my fears disappeared, I breathed through the platy exit trains and stood at the top, relieved, reassured and deeply satisfied."
Dave Graham
Nils Favre publishes video of his nemesis boulder
The western Swiss elite climber Nils Favre was able to crown his trips to Ticino at the beginning of the year with two successful double ascents. In the video about the lines General Dissaray (8b) and Casavino (8b+) in Brione he even speaks of Nemesis, the Greek goddess of balancing justice.
"Even though General Dissaray is 'only' rated 8b, it was really tough for me and a big fight."
Nils Favre
When Nils Favre attempted the Boulder General Dissaray years ago, he failed to connect the key moves. In January of this year he took on the line again and invested more than three sessions for the successful ascent. “Even though General Dissaray is 'only' rated 8b, it was really tough for me and a big fight. I'm super happy."
"It was a good feeling to fight properly and climb very precisely at the same time."
Nils Favre on the ascent of Casavino (8b +)
Inspired by this success, he set about doing the 8b+ boulder on the same day Casavino to decode. The twelve moves quickly felt good. And so the French-speaking Swiss was right at the top after the first attempt.
Double success in Val Bavona
Also in a double pack on one day, Nils Favre climbed the Val Bavona the two boulders Tomba (8b+) and Heritage (8b). In the video, he not only provides insights into his ascents, but also provides potential repeaters with a detailed beta.
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Credits: Cover picture mellow