Sam Weir secures the third ascent of Giuliano Cameroni’s crimp test piece REM on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano. For the line originally rated 8C+, he suggests a gentle correction to 8C/+.
Tessin-Local opened in March 2019 Giuliano Cameroni REM on the Dreamtime boulder and rated his line, which leads straight up from the start of the famous Fred Nicole boulder Dreamtime over ultra-small ledges, with 8C+. According to Paul Robinson Sam Weir recently secured the third ascent. In contrast to Robinson, Weir suggests only a marginal downward price correction.
This is the hardest boulder I've ever done and 100 percent my style.
Sam Weir
REM: Hard 8C or easy 8C+
Paul Robinson was the first to repeat Cameroni’s new test piece almost exactly a year after its first ascent. Since he cracked the line within a few sessions, he suggested a difficulty level of 8B+. This massive devaluation caused heated emotions at the time.
After his successful climb, Sam Weir said that Giuliano was correct in his rating, but then suggested a gentle downgrade to 8C/+. It will take further ascents to make a solid assessment, but it is becoming apparent that REM is probably not a clean 8C+ boulder.
In my opinion, REM is a hard 8C or a light 8C+. He's like Jade or Hazel Grace, just two degrees harder.
Sam Weir
Giuliano Cameroni doing the first ascent of REM
Interaction of temperature, humidity, wind and skin
What is certain is that you need optimal conditions to have a chance on the ultra-fine strips. Fortunately, he found this on the day of his climb, says Weir. "Physically it's not the hardest pull I've ever done on groins, but the fact that the hardest pull is the last one makes the whole thing incredibly difficult."
The temperature, the humidity, the wind and the skin have to be perfectly coordinated when you arrive at the Crux. And you have a maximum of 2 or 3 Go’s per week.
Sam Weir
That might interest you
- Paul Robinson repeats REM (8c+) and suggests 8b+
- Paul Robinson about the bouldering paradise Ticino and overgraded boulders
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Credits: Cover picture Sam Weir