Currently, the international bouldering elite is in the Averstal, respectively the bars and slopers in the hand. The strong climbers Simon Lorenzi and Nico Pelorson also enjoy the granite blocks. Both don't let anything get in the way and pull the most difficult boulders from day one.
The Frenchman Nico Pelorson is tough as nails when it comes to evaluating sport climbing routes and bouldering lines. No Kpote Only, originally also rated 9A, he described as a solid 8C. He classified a 9a route first climbed by Alexander Megos in Céüse as only 8c +. And the 9A boulder Soudain Seul he rated it 8C+. Will some grades tumble in the Magic Wood as well?
An 8C for the Magic Wood start
On his first day in the Swiss bouldering Mecca, Nico Pelorson led the 8C boulder, among other things The quiet force to heart. The Frenchman was able to do the 2011 of Daniel Woods crack opened line in one session. Not least because the boulder suited him very well. "That's exactly my style," says Pelorson.
Nico Pelorson repeats La force tranquille (8C)
The strong Frenchman succeeded on the second day in the Magic Wood Practice of the Wild (8B+/C). The boulder was in 2004 by the American top climber Chris Sharma first climbed and was one of the first 8C lines at the time.
Since then, Practice of the Wild has been repeated by numerous strong climbers and has seen a gentle rating correction to 8B+/C over the years. Nico Pelorson graded the boulder – as did Vadim Timonov, Christopher Rauch or Clément Lechaptois in front of him – as a smooth 8B+.
Nico Pelorson climbs Practice of the Wild
Simon Lorenzi with almost 8B+/C flash
The Belgian also stayed in the Magic Wood Simon Lorenzi, who is on his way there in Chironico made a stopover to Shawn Raboutou's brand new 9A alphanes To taste. In the Averstal he also managed the Sharma test piece Practice of the Wild. The 25-year-old almost managed a flash ascent. But only almost. "With a little more optimization, it could have been a flash," says Simon Lorenzi. «Practice of the Wild is definitely one of my favorites at Magic Wood.»
This is how Simon Lorenzi climbs Practice of the Wild
Later the Belgian also drew Steppenwolf (8A+/B). He needed six attempts spread over three sessions for the groin boulder.
That might interest you
- The six most beautiful Magic Wood boulders in areas 5b to 7a
- Simon Lorenzi climbs Foundation's Edge (8C) at breakneck speed and targets Alphane (9A).
- Frenchman Nicolas Pelorson climbs the 8c boulder Délir onirique assis with just one shoe
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Credits: Cover picture Mejdi Schalck