The Belgian Simon Lorenzi succeeds in the sit-start version of the legendary boulder Off the Wagon in Val Bavona, Ticino.
Off the Wagon is one of the most famous and impressive bouldering lines in the world. The boulder became famous through the film Dosage 3, in which Dave Graham and Chris Sharma project the line. The first ascent succeeded neither Graham nor Sharma, but years later the Finn Nalle Hukkataival.
Since the first ascent of the standing start (8b +), i.e. standing on the famous wagon, the idea of climbing the boulder with a sitting start was in the room. Another six years passed before the American Shawn Raboutou could climb this extended line. It was the first 8c + boulder in Switzerland.
Since Shawn Raboutou's first ascent, I've been obsessed with the line. And now I've said to myself that I want to finish the boulder by the end of 2021.
Simon Lorenzi
Shawn Raboutou on the first ascent of Off the Wagon sit
Simon Lorenzi began to project the seat start version as soon as he made the famous long train higher up. In the past two months, he invested two sessions in the line and fell in the same place over and over again.
Two weeks ago, on a rainy night shortly before my return trip, I discovered the key to success.
Simon Lorenzi
When one day the exit was completely wet, Lorenzi concentrated on finding an alternative solution for the key pull - with success. One tiny adjustment meant that he succeeded in the job 50% of the time. The time was ripe for the climb.
So this week I came back to Sonlerto for a session. Due to the weather, the day before yesterday was the only day you could climb.
Simon Lorenzi
On the spur of the moment, Simon sat in his car and started the nine-hour journey from Belgium on Tuesday. His hope was fully on Wednesday. At 15.00 p.m. he started the first attempts - but had to give up after three hours and 15 attempts.
I fell on the same bad move over and over again. It drove me completely crazy and I was physically exhausted.
Simon Lorenzi
So his last hope was to take an extended break, which is why he went to the Boulder Road Kill, the Dave Graham and Clément Lechaptois projected. After this change of scenery, the time had come again for the last attempts in Off the Wagon. But the first attempts were again unsuccessful.
After one of the attempts, I decided not to really take a break to get the feeling of the key point.
Simon Lorenzi
This strategy has paid off. Simon Lorenzi succeeds in inspecting the seated start version of Off the Wagon, thereby fulfilling a long-cherished wish.
That might interest you
- Simon Lorenzi opens the second 9a boulder in the world: Soudain Seul
- No sooner said than done: Simon Lorenzi climbs The Power of Now (8c)
- 8c + boulder: Drew Ruana climbs Creature from the Black Lagoon
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Oriane Tollebeek