Tough boulders repeated and first ascended

Sam Weir is able to repeat the Raboutou testpiece Fuck the System (8C+) in Fionnay under challenging conditions. Elias Iagnemma opens Afrodite in Piedmont, an 8B+ boulder with two extreme moves right at the beginning.

Sam Weir needed a long breath until he Fionnay the trains of Fuck the System (8C+). But the hard work of the past few months was worth it: a few days ago, the strong Frenchman was able to celebrate his repetition of the famous line.

After two devastating falls on the 5a Top-Out six weeks ago, I finally found better conditions and managed to make it to the top despite the heat and humidity.

Sam Weir

Fuck the System: A real test of patience

To complete this boulder, he really had to step up his game and think long-term, says Sam Weir. "Since last September, I've finally focused on my weaknesses and done a lot of basic work over the last 9 months instead of just climbing."

This hard work paid off on Shawn Raboutou's test piece and also motivated him beyond that: "I raised the bar a little higher and this opened the door to dream a little bigger."

Elias Iagnemma cleans the small ledges of his first ascent Afrodite (8B+). Image: @steppph_dove
Elias Iagnemma cleans the small ledges of his first ascent Afrodite (8B+). Image: @steppph_dove

Hard summer project found and first ascent: Afrodite (8B+)

The strong Italian Elias Iagnemma was looking for new challenges in the mountains of Piedmont to escape the rising temperatures. He found many potential routes, but one in particular caught his eye: Afrodite (8B+).

The practically smooth wall with micro-grips for hands and feet overhangs 35 degrees and requires very powerful shoulder pulls.

Elias Iagnemma

The hardest moves are right at the beginning: "The difficulty lies in generating an incredible amount of force on the shoulders while maintaining maximum pressure on the left foot, which is standing on a tiny vertical step."

Elias Iagnemma on the first ascent of Afrodite
Elias Iagnemma during the first ascent of Afrodite (8B+) in Piedmont. Image: @steppph_dove

Afrodite (8B+) is one of the most beautiful lines he has ever climbed, enthuses Elias Iagnemma. And the potential in this area is far from exhausted: "Before the evening session, I spent some time researching new projects and found another bouldering area near my home with many new projects for next winter. The concentration of rock in this place is incredible."

That might interest you

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture @steppph_dove

News

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.

New sole instead of a new shoe: the time to resole

The right time to get climbing shoes resoled is sooner than you might think: when there's about one millimeter of sole left. Honestly, nobody measures it, but how do I know when I should get my shoes resoled, and where can I even do that?

How is artificial intelligence changing the sport of climbing?

Whether in training or route setting, for climbing gym operators or amateur athletes: We have looked at some examples of how artificial intelligence is currently shaping climbing, what might come in the future and what advantages and risks are involved.

Warming up on the rock: This is how Alexander Megos does it.

On a trip away from Bleu and Ticino, it's often just you and your project. No warm-up boulders and easy routes in sight. Professional climber Alexander Megos explained to us how best to prepare your fingers and body for such situations. He always keeps two things in his car for this purpose – a yoga mat and a fingerboard. Here he explains how he uses both.

Messner tours Germany: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt

Reinhold Messner will embark on a lecture tour starting in October: 23 dates between Füssen and Ingolstadt, four different programs. From "Nanga Parbat" to "World Mountains – The 4th Dimension". Tickets are available through Eventim.

Comment on the article

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here