Janja Garnbret wins lead, Nicolai Uznik becomes Boulder European Champion

The first medals were awarded at the European Climbing Championships in Munich. In the women's lead climbing, the Slovenian high-flyer Janja Garnbet wins. In the men's bouldering final, Austria's Nicolai Uznik came out on top and was crowned European Champion.

Janja Garnbret realizes her dream and wins the last title that was missing from her extensive collection: the European Championship. The Slovenian dominated the lead climbing events from qualifying to today's final. Nevertheless, it was not an easy victory for the exceptional climber: "The European Championship is probably one of the most difficult championships to win," says Janja Garnbret, alluding to the high expectations of her. “If you can win world championships, then people think you should win the European championships. That's the way it is."

"It was definitely one of the toughest wins mentally. That's why I'm all the happier with my performance and my mentality throughout the competition."

Janja Garnbret

Jessica Pilz with 45+ climbed to second place. The long final route was good for the Austrian. "It was super fun to climb like that and the audience was incredible. France's Manon Hily, who won the bronze medal, felt very excited but in top form.

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janja-garnbet-am-top-lead-final
Janja Garnbret is the only athlete to reach the top in the lead final and deserves to be crowned European Champion.

Difficult semi-final route in the spirit of Garnbrett

For the semi-finals in women's lead climbing, the route setters set a demanding challenge on the overhanging wall. The two key sections of the route were also reflected in the athletes' scores. Nine athletes achieved a score between 18 and 19+, another six climbers a result between 24 and 24+.

Janja Garnbret (45) achieved the best result ahead of France's Manon Hily (35), her compatriot Mia Krampl (34+) and Jessica Pilz (27+) from Austria and Hannah Meul (27) from Germany. Alluding to the difficulty of the route, Janja Garnbret said in the winner's interview: "I felt pumped and that's what I expect from a route."

Ranking list final lead climbing women

Bouldering men: Uznik Gold, Avezou Silver, Ondra Bronze

The decision in men's bouldering was much tighter than in the women's lead final. After the second boulder, the Austrian Nicolai Uznik (T5Zz), the French Sam Avezou (T4z3) and Mejdi Schalk (T3z1) and the Czech Adam Ondra (T10z9) were all very close in terms of points. All reached the top and before that in the extremely difficult Boulder 1 neither the top nor the zone.

On the third boulder, the young Frenchman Mejdi Schalk, a first aspirant, fell back a little in the points classification after he was only able to secure the zone. Nicolai Uznik, on the other hand, flashed Boulder 3, as did Italian Filip Schenk. Ondra and Avezou also got a top, but in several attempts.

Uznik gold
Cheering at the top of Final Boulder 2: Nicolai Uznik climbs towards the European Championship title.

The decision was then made at the last bouldering problem of the final: None of the athletes made it to the top. Mejdi Schalk, who secured the zone and also climbed well beyond it, coped best with the very athletic and dynamic boulder.

So the podium was set: gold for the Austrian Nicolai Uznik, silver for the Frenchman Sam Avezou and bronze for the Czech Adam Ondra. "The European Championships were the highlight of this year and it was my big goal to be in my best form here," said the fresh European champion.

Ranking Final Boulder Men

Detailed results of the semifinals and final round bouldering men

Adam Ondra in an interview about today (audio)

Adam Ondra European Championship 2022 - Photo Petr Chodura
Picture Petr Chodura

Boulder final men | repetition | Video

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