Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos secured an Olympic ticket for the 2020 Summer Games in Tokyo after today's qualifying round of the combined format. Adam Ondra misses the entry into the final as well as the first chance for an Olympic ticket due to a disqualification.
After another rest day, due to the women's competition yesterday, the men's decisive all-round combination battle was one of the first seven (out of a total of 20) Olympic tickets awarded as part of the 2019 World Climbing Championship.
In the speed competition climbed Jakob Schubert (after a slip-up in the first run) in the second run on safety and finished with a time of 07,385 sec on the standard 15-meter speed route place 15. The vice-world champion in bouldering then showed in the subsequent Boulder competition that his silver medal did not come by chance before 6 days. With 3 Tops and 4 zones, Schubert took second place in the bouldering competition, which already catapulted him to intermediate 6 and into the final places ahead of the final lead-in competition, his master discipline.
In the final promotion then Schubert did not bother anything again, climbed up to 36 and secured place 2 in the final competition
"I'm doing incredibly well right now. I have a lot of emotions going through my head. Today was the most important day of the World Cup for me and it was extremely nerve-wracking. I was very nervous, I really wanted the Olympic ticket. That has now worked the same in the first attempt is awesome. The World Cup is already more successful than I ever imagined. 2 medals (note silver in bouldering, bronze in the lead) and the Olympic qualification, so I did not expect. The combo finale the day after tomorrow is now an encore. I can climb completely free. But yes, if you're in the final, you want a medal! "
Jakob Schubert
This meant a total score of 60 points (place 15 speed x place 2 boulder x place 2 lead) and the sovereign final place on place 2 behind the German Alexander Megos., After an objection surprisingly not represented in the World Cup final is advancing world champion Adam Ondra, because he stepped on a bolt and was classified back to 19th place. Since, in addition to Schubert and Megos, there are also four Japanese in the World Cup final, Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos - regardless of the outcome of the final - can no longer take their Olympic tickets.
This is really awesome, really crazy. In all honesty: I would have least expected this result myself, especially when bouldering this morning. The chance of finishing in the top three there was minimal. And then from the first boulder it went really well and I won. When it came to lead climbing, I actually had the impression that I hadn't climbed that well at all. But you take what you get. Now I can approach the final on Wednesday in a relaxed manner - because I will be at the Olympics! "
Alex Megos
Here Adam Ondra stands on the bolt
Here Adam Ondra snaps out due to a missing clip
During a qualifying round in 2014, Adam Ondra made a minor but decisive mistake. He realized too late that he had not properly clipped the rope into the first bolt.
Adam Ondra Chamonix 2014 - qualification from Žiga Janež on Vimeo.
Highlights of the qualifying round of the combined format
Info and live stream of the climbing world championship 2019 in Japan
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Credits: Cover picture DAV / Jorgos Megos, text DAV / PIE