The first World Cup decisions in bouldering were made today in Innsbruck's Olympiaworld. Janja Garnbret (SLO) won the very tough round and made history with her victory: She is the first woman to win gold in two disciplines. Silver went to Akiyo Noguchi from Japan. Stasa Gejo from Serbia took bronze and the defending champion Petra Klingler came in sixth. Austria took fourth place thanks to the lead world champion Jessica Pilz.
In front of 5000 spectators, the six finalists struggled with extremely difficult bouldering. The four boulders often caused major problems when they got started. In addition, practically all participants fought on the fifth day of the competition with sore hands and sometimes bloody fingers. A scenario that has hardly been seen in competitions of this magnitude. Petra Klingler was by far the best on the second boulder, but still just missed the zone. After that she was also unsuccessful in the next two boulders. "It is frustrating. After a great semi-final, I unfortunately couldn't improve myself in the final and couldn't show what I wanted to do. After the so far very positive competitions in lead and speed, I expected more from my performance in my favorite discipline, "said Klingler after the competition.
Janja Garnbret underpins her dominance
Janja Garnbret, who missed the gold medal in the lead because of a time difference of 10 seconds, won her first world title in bouldering. Two tops and three zones were enough for the exceptional Slovenian talent. “This title means a lot to me because I was very disappointed after the lead. I have been working towards this World Cup all year and am now simply overjoyed that it worked out in bouldering, ”said the lead world champion from 2016 after the final.
Pictures of the Boulder Final at the World Championships 2018
The final placements at a glance
1. Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
3. Stasa Gejo (SRB)
4. Jessica Mushroom (AUT)
5. Miho Nonaka (JPN)
6. Petra Klingler (SUI)
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Credits: Text PD, Pictures Austria Climbing