South Tyrolean climbers Simon Gietl and Manuel Oberarzbacher have gifted us with a new mixed route in the Reintal valley just in time for Christmas! On November 23rd and 24th, the climbing team opened their line on the previously unclimbed granite wall, and only four days later, Gietl, together with Mario Kapelle, achieved a redpoint ascent of ARGOS (M9, WI6+) – an early highlight of the young ice climbing season.
The start to the cold season couldn't be better! The new line is a hidden gem, just a stone's throw from our home village.
Simon Gietl and Mario Kapelle
A hidden wall in the alpine heart of South Tyrol
Rein in Taufers is considered the ice climbing mecca of South Tyrol. From easy beginner routes to long alpine icefalls, the Reintal valley offers everything. Despite the valley's apparent development, it still harbors undiscovered niches. It was in just such a hidden area that they found Gietl and Oberarzbacher, the striking, previously unclimbed granite wall, in which ARGOS now runs.
The approach involves two short mixed pitches in the M4 and M5+ range, before a short traverse to the main wall reveals the actual route. There, the route continues for five demanding pitches through solid granite: from crack systems and dihedrals to a section in the middle characterized by a fine, delicate glaze of ice (WI6+).
Mixed climbing at its limit: M9 and WI6+
ARGOS is at the upper end of the classic mixed climbing scale. The mix of routes explains why the climbing team themselves refer to it as a "hidden gem": The line offers everything that makes mixed climbing so fascinating – precision, power, endurance, and a good dose of alpine awareness. The first ascent of the line was entirely traditional. All the pitons were left in place: 6 belay bolts, 9 intermediate pitons, and 3 peckers. Gietl emphasizes that it is important to him to leave a route as it was established, without removing any gear.
For those repeating the climb, the rope team recommends two sets of Totem Cams, one #3 Friend, and four short ice screws. The descent is via the route by rappelling.
It's remarkable how much can still be found in a valley like Rein in Taufers – with its long history of ice climbing.
Simon Gietl and Mario Kapelle
For mixed climbing enthusiasts who love the combination of rock precision and ice feel, the route should offer an exciting temptation for the winter season.
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Credits: All images by Simon Gietl