Roger Schäli has been one of the best all-round mountaineers in the world for years. Now, the Sörenberger has succeeded, which proves his scene-known nickname "Mister Eiger": Roger Schäli has to 50. Once his favorite mountain - the Eiger - rose.
"The Eiger means a lot to me," says Roger Schäli and it sounds like a declaration of love. "I know no other mountain better and I have spent more time on no other wall. Even though the Eiger is very familiar to me: he remains a myth with many magical, but also tragic stories. The more I climb the Eiger, the closer I feel to the mountain, and the stronger it represents my mountaineering career. "
Several remarkable Eiger tours within a few days
Just a few days ago, Roger Schäli set up his 50 in a team of two with Lucien Caviezel on the route "Lochspiel". Eiger trapdoor. With their paragliders they then flew over the Eiger West flank into the valley. A day later, the same roped team managed a paraglider launch from the Eiger summit after ascending the Mittellegigrat. The good late summer weather was again used by Schäli on the following day for a complete redpoint ascent of the well-known and demanding route «Deep blue sea» (level of difficulty 7b +, length 300 m). The highlight of the summer, however, was the first one-day redpoint ascent of the heavy multi-pitch solo tour "La Vida es Silbar" with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll. The 900 meter long climb route has a difficulty level of 7c +.
«Humility in front of the mountain»
"50 complete Eiger passes are an impressive number," said Roger Schäli. "But you also have to be humble towards the imposing mountain. So many success stories are also faced with just as many attempts. The Eiger is relentless. I've climbed the North Face dozens of times without getting off the top or on the west flank. "
"50 complete Eiger passes are an impressive number. But you also have to be humble towards the imposing mountain. »
Roger Schäli
Repeating the big Eiger routes in the complete free climbing style usually takes several years until everything fits together perfectly. In Schäli's longest Eiger project "Japanese Direttissima", he spent seven years of meticulous planning, disciplined preparation, hard training and countless attempts to finally reach the summit. "Sometimes you have to be sensible and turn back. That can be very hard mentally and physically. But it is all the better if you reach the summit another healthy time. This close examination of oneself and nature - that is the fascinating thing about alpinism. »
The first Eiger success
His first Eiger Ascent realized Roger Schäli at the age of 18 years on the Mittellegigrat. A good year later, the Sörenberger for the first time crossed the prestigious Eiger North Face - together with Markus Iff through the Lauper Route.
Roger Schäli 2002 became known for his first ascent on the Arwa Spire in the Indian Himalaya Mountains. He was nominated for the Piolet d'Or. Schäli is one of the few alpinists who has been able to climb the Patagonia trilogy of Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt. During the first six weeks of the year, 2008 succeeded in inspecting the six large north faces of the Alps. With it he set a new record. But Roger Schälis home is the Eiger. His successful 50 tours on the mountain include four first ascents - the "Odyssee" (8a +, 900m), the currently heaviest rock route - and several first free tours, such as the "Japanese Direttissima" (8a, 1800m, M5).
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Credits: Titelbild Nicolas Hojac, Text ZVg