Just before Christmas Eve, Leo Cea gave himself an early Christmas present. During a four-day trip to Arco, the 13-year-old climbed "Pure Dreaming" – and was himself a little surprised by his quick ascent.
On December 22nd, the German-Chilean climber Leo Cea with »Pure Dreaming« in bow He has completed one of his most difficult routes to date. The line in the Massone sector was bolted by Alfredo Webber and first climbed in 2018 by Adam Ondra First ascent. Leo describes it as one of the most beautiful and varied routes he has ever climbed.
A very special route for me – because of the movements, but also the historical connection to climbing in Arco.
Leo Cea
"Pure Dreaming" (sometimes also "Puro Dreaming") is a more recent variation of the Arco classic "Reini's Vibes" (8c/+) and is one of the most popular routes between 8c+ and 9a there. Many renowned climbers and Leo's role models have repeated the line – such as Angela Eiter, Alex Megos, and Laura Rogora. This October, Janja Garnbret made climbing history there. when she climbed "Pure Dreaming" on her first attempt.
Endurance test piece with two key sections
Leo Cea, who achieved "Pure Dreaming" shortly after his 13th birthday, is also young. He became aware of the line, among other things, through the Italian. Andrea Chelleris, who climbed it in 2021 at just twelve years old – a world record at the time for grade 9a. Leo now holds the title himself as the youngest 9a climber of all time. "The fact that Andrea climbed the route at such a young age was particularly motivating for me," says the German-Chilean. The two climbers also met in person in Margalef a few weeks ago.
"Pure Dreaming" is a roughly 50-meter-long, overhanging, and extremely endurance-intensive line. It begins with an introductory boulder problem of about 15 moves before becoming increasingly steep. For Leo Cea, the route presented two clear cruxes: a beta crux in the first third and a dynamic section in the final third.
Ascent in three days: "perhaps more of a soft 9a"
On the second day of the route, Leo came very close to the anchor on his fourth attempt, only to slip with his foot as he exited the roof. "I was really frustrated then," says Leo, who has now completed his fifth 9a this year. After the fall, he consciously decided to call it a day – and rewarded himself on day three with the ascent. The fact that it went so quickly surprised even the young lead climbing specialist himself a little.
I didn't think I would be able to complete the route in so few attempts.
Leo Cea
Regarding the difficulty level of "Pure Dreaming," Leo Cea agrees with most recent repeaters. According to him, the grade lies somewhere between 8c+ and 9a – "perhaps closer to a soft 9a," says Leo. Adam Ondra After his first ascent in 2018, he initially proposed the higher rating.
Since around 2021, the consensus grade has been 8c+/9a due to new beta and the use of kneepads. Leo also used a pad for a ("very fun") freehand resting position halfway up the line. At the same time, the grading of "Pure Dreaming" remains subjective, and the route is still sometimes marked as 8c+ and sometimes as 9a. With his current height of 1,43 meters and a wingspan of 1,50 meters, Leo's height also played a significant role. On 8a.nu he ticked off the route as 8c+, his fifth.
Winter training at home in Franconia
Regardless of the difficulty level, Leo Cea is currently extremely motivated to try hard routes. On his next visit to Arco, he wants to further attempt the steeper and more difficult variation "Pure Dreaming Plus" (9a+), which he has already briefly tested.
Until his next longer climbing trip, Leo is collecting things at home in the meantime. Frankenjura Difficult routes. There he recently onsighted "Georg Simon Direkt" (8a+) and sent "Klondike Cat" (8c). The young exceptional climber is trained by, among others, a mentor. Alex Megos and supported by the Frankenjura Academy and the non-profit Benno Kittl Foundation.
I am very grateful for all the support and opportunities to develop myself. Arco was beautiful and fascinated me.
Leo Cea
Uncut video: Leo Cea climbs »Pure Dreaming«
That might interest you
- Fourth 9a for Leo Cea (12) | Trip Tik Tonik
- World record: 12-year-old Andrea Chelleris climbs Pure Dreaming (9a)
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Credits cover photo: René Cea/Leo Cea