Italian climber Pietro Vidi has successfully repeated the trad testpiece Magic Line (5.14c/8c+). The iconic line, first climbed by Ron Kauk in 1996, has seen few repeats since and is considered a real challenge even among experienced climbers.
Vidi's ascent marks the end of an exceptionally successful season in Yosemite Valley: Just last month he achieved both the Pre-Muir Wall on El Capitan, as well as the trad classic Meltdown, one of the valley's toughest fault lines.
"A beautiful but intimidating goal"
After a last-minute change of plans, as he was unable to attempt the Nose on El Capitan, Magic Line became Vidi's focus: "After a last-minute change of plans, Magic Line immediately became the obvious goal. The line has always fascinated me, but I was also intimidated – I knew it wouldn't suit me as well as Meltdown. The idea of ​​climbing both routes in the same season, however, motivated me tremendously," Vidi explained after his successful ascent.
To his surprise, the Italian quickly discovered that the route suited him after all. A tough opening boulder problem, followed by very delicate backscissors on poor footholds and small crimps, before a no-hands rest leads to the final crux. "You have to find the perfect balance between pushing, pulling, having enough confidence, but not too much," explained the trad climbing expert. Jacopo Larcher last year about the route, after he was finally able to climb it in November 2024.
From top-rope to via ferrata – Vidi works his way up the line
In his very first top-rope session, Vidi managed to link the two key sections. For a trad line of this difficulty, this was incredibly rapid progress. In three further sessions, he refined the beta of the long middle section and perfected the placement of his cams – a crucial aspect of Magic Line.
In my fourth session, I managed a top-rope ascent of the line, placing all the gear correctly. This made me feel ready for serious lead climbing attempts, even though I had very little time left in the valley.
On the first day of his attempts, Vidi reached the final crux twice – but slipped on one of the last moves, resulting in some impressive falls. Success, however, was not long in coming: the next day, the Italian climber successfully completed the ascent: "I did it on my first try. I flew through the crux sections without thinking and suddenly found myself 'magically' at the anchor," Vidi recounts.
Many successes in one season
For Vidi, Magic Line is one of the most beautiful and technically demanding lines he has ever climbed. He said he was extremely pleased that he was able to complete both Meltdown and Magic Line in the same season.
I'm incredibly happy to have climbed both routes in one trip. Next time I'm in Yosemite Valley, though, my focus will definitely be back on the big walls.
Pietro Vidi
- Pietro Vidi and Camilla Moroni free climb the "Pre-Muir Wall" on El Capitan
- Pietro Vidi and Alessandro Larcher successfully complete a free ascent of Joy Division (8b)
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Credit: Cover Photo: Victoria Kohner-Flanagan