Once again we receive a success message from a person who is not mentioned too often in the media. The German climber Michael Gunsilius succeeds in repeating the clean climbing route Principle hope (8b / 8b + E9-E10) on the Bürser plate.

Principle hope climbing is like a battle, says Beat Kammerlander in an interview after his first visit in the year 2009. "The handles are extremely small, you get bloody fingers and ruined the climbing shoes," continues Beat. The climbing style, combined with the sparse hedge, make the route a special case in times of perfectly secured sport climbing routes in the overhang. Exactly this video and the testimony of Beat Kammerlander have caught Michael Gunsilius many years ago. For the time being he has shelved the idea of ​​an ascent. Only when friends of Michael's circle of friends scored the route, he decided seriously to project the route. Michael told us how it went then.

Michael Gunsilius on the process until the successful transition from Principle Hope

"I have the 23. In December, 2016 started rocking the keyhole solo with the Micro Traxion. It went quite well and I was able to climb the route relatively quickly in Toprope (within a few days). However, the laying of the wedges and reliance on the mobile fuses was not good enough to make a serious attempt until the rapidly rising spring temperatures. At that time I decided to postpone the project until winter 2017 / 18. Since I work full-time as a business consultant and usually only have time on weekends for experiments on the rock and the weather often did not play along, the projecting dragged on for another two months in length. How many days I finally needed, I can not say exactly, so I guess so 10 days. For the past five days, I have made only one attempt at a time and ultimately took five attempts to climb up to the through hole. "
Michael Gunsilius before the successful climb
Michael Gunsilius before the successful climb

Who is Michael Gunsilius?

Michael lives in Durach southeast of Kempten in the Allgäu. In the area there are some conglomerate areas for climbing. It often attracts the 9a climber and 8b boulderer to the nearby areas of Switzerland or Austria. Of course, Michael also likes to flee to the south, then especially to Lake Garda. When asked if he already has new goals and projects in mind, he answers evasively: "There are future goals and dream tours, of course, but I would like to talk about them only after their realization. But let's just say that if time permits, I really want to do a heavy multi-pitcher tour. Then I would have done relatively well in all disciplines. "Well, then we are curious which route Michael undertakes. Maybe it will be the latest test piece by Beat Kammerlander, Battle Zone (8c) in the Rätikon?

Video about the master himself in principle hope

Video about Barbara Zangerl's ascent

For any inquiries, We're here to answer you.

Credits: pictures Michael Gunsilius


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