In June, the two Swiss alpinists Roger Schäli and Stephan Siegrist were successful in making 2019 a successful route through the Rotbrätt Westwand on the Jungfrau as the first climber with a silverback. The topo can be found below.

In winter 2017, the two Swiss cyclists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schäli decided to realize a new route at the Rotbrätt on the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps. There was only one route in the left part of the wall so far, because the passage through the middle of the wall is steep and difficult with some passages that can hardly be covered.

Several difficult lengths to 8a / 8a + await the lovers of silverback.

In the summer 2018 Siegrist and Schäli started. They opted for the steepest point on the Rotbrätt, because only she was dry after the snowy winter months and free of snow. The two alpinists were able to set up their route on the second attempt due to the weather. Nine pitches in the finest rock in the impressive west wall of the Rotbrätts der Jungfrau were now available for a red dot.

Redbream in the west wall of the Jungfrau. (Picture Frank Kretschmann)

A year later, in summer 2019, Siegrist and Schäli set off with photographer Frank Kretschmann to try the red dot. The weather was stable and her tour as the only place on the Rotbrätt dry. Both climbers were free to climb the first pitches. But the fifth pitch is extremely steep and heavy.

After Schäli succeed after a hard fight and this red point but really only the really hard part of the tour begins. In the sixth pitch a boulder problem in the middle of the passage, poorly secured and in heavily overhanging terrain waiting. Here was the team spirit and the close friendship of the rope team.

Roger Schäli and Stephan Siegrist at the first ascent of Silverback. (Picture Frank Kretschmann)
Roger Schäli and Stephan Siegrist discuss the next pitch. (Picture Frank Kretschmann

Culinary provided by photographer and Base Camp chef Kretschmann, the two alpinists put a rest day. Then Schäli was able to climb the sixth and heaviest pitch of the route rotpunkt amid cheering calls from his two friends. After two more simple pitches, Schäli and Siegrist stood at the highest point of the Red Roat. It was done! The second and heaviest tour on Rotbrätt got the red dot after four days in the wall.

Facts about the Route Silverback on the Rotbrätt Westwand

Route: Silverback, west face Rotbrätt an der Jungfrau, difficulty: 8a +, wall height: 350 meters

Preparation: 2009 Stephan Siegrist, Giovanni Quirici, 2018 Development of the route by Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schäli

genesis: First ascent of the entire route in summer 2018 by Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schäli. First redpoint ascent of the route in June 2019 by Roger Schäli with rope partner Stephan Siegrist.

seriousness: High alpine multi-pitch route in the western wall of the Rotbrätt at the Jungfrau.

Topo of the climbing route Silverback on the Rotbrätt at the Jungfrau

Topo Silverback_Rotbrätt_Jungfrau_Mehrseillängenroute
Topo of the multi-pitch route Silberrücken am Rotbrätt, Westwand Jungfrau

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Credits: pictures Frank Kretschmann, Text zVg.


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