For a long time it was quiet about the Squamish test piece Dreamcatcher in Canada - until the two strong women Paige Claassen and Michaela Kiersch came. The Italian Gabriele Moroni is also well on the way: He scores the Frankenjura route The Holy Grail (9a). On the part of Adam Ondra there is for once no message from the rock, but from the altar: He and his partner Iva Vejmolov have said yes.

Italian Gabriele Moroni scores The Holy Grail (9a) in the Franconian Jura

Gabriele Moroni the German climbing mecca Frankenjura is no stranger to it. He has visited the limestone cliffs of Franconian Switzerland several times and climbed numerous classics, including what is probably the most famous 9a in the world: Action Directe. On his most recent trip, he buttoned up another route of this level of difficulty - and also scored points: The Holy Grail. The finger-heavy and heavily overhanging route at the Colosseum was designed in 2005 by none other than Markus Bock first ascents.

Video about the inspection of Action Directe by Gabriele Moroni


Woman power in Squamish: Paige Claassen and Michaela Kiersch score dreamcatchers (9a)

Paige Claassen during the ascent of the Dreamcatcher route near Squamish. (Photo Arjan de Kock)
Paige Claassen during the ascent of the Dreamcatcher route near Squamish. (Photo Arjan de Kock)

The route Dreamcatcher at Squamish in western Canada is one of the most difficult routes in the country. Since the first ascent through Chris Sharma In 2012, Dreamcatcher is considered the test piece of the climbing elite. Among the repeaters are names like Sean McColl, Alexander Megos., Adam Ondra or the boulderer Jimmy Webb. A woman has not yet been able to climb the route freely. Until now. The American managed to do this a few days ago Paige Claassen.

I have made up my mind not to let go. I never think I've tried so hard.

Paige Claassen

Paige Claassen at one of the red dot attempts at the beginning of the month

Paige Claassen succeeded in creating the sensation of the first female ascent of Dreamcatcher. But a second woman also planned the routes at Squamish: Michaela Kiersch. Only a few days after Claassen, she duplicated it - but communicated her success very reluctantly. In a short Instagram story with the words “I did it”, she let it be known that she too could climb Dreamcatcher Rotpunkt.


Wedding: Adam Ondra and Iva Vejmolov say yes

Almost eight years ago, the paths of the Czech climber Adam Ondra and Iva Vejmolov. And since then they have been inseparable. On February 20, Vejmolov gave the first sign that something was happening in the relationship. In combination with a picture of the two, she published the following lines.

❤️21. 12th 2013
❤️9. 2th 2021
❤️1. 9th 2021

It was quickly rumored whether the second date was the wedding and September 1, 2021 could be the date of birth of a child together. But now it is clear: On February 9th, the two got engaged and a few days ago, on September 1st, 2021, they gave each other the definitive yes-word. The two shared the special moment of the wedding not only with their family members, but with numerous friends. As expected, these included some familiar faces from the international climbing scene.

Image Iva Ondra_Wedding
Image Iva Ondra

The Basque and longtime trainer Ondras, Patxi Usobiaga was part of the wedding party. So does the Italian Stefano Ghisolfi with partner Sara Grippo and product specialist at La Sportiva, Pietro Dal Pra. The celebration took place at the organic farm Maso Naranch with a view of Lake Garda.

Pictures of Iva Ondra's bachelorette party

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Iva Ondra

actiontalkTV
EnglishSpanishFrenchItalianGerman