Adam Ondra announces the red point ascent of the most difficult route in Italy, Erebor. Adam Ondra gives a rating of 9b, thus classifying the route compared to the first ascent Stefano Ghisolfi.
He couldn't have asked for a better start to his Arco stay. The Czech professional climber Adam Ondra picks up after a few days in the area Eremo di San Paolo the only third free ascent of the Erebor route.
“We still have a lot of time ahead of us here in Arco and I'm overjoyed to start the trip like this. The best conditions, a good feeling and an irrepressible hunger for difficult tours are there! "
Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra got on the route for the first time on a climbing day in April and checked the individual trains and only returned to Eremo di San Paolo in November. During the current stay, the Czech invested only three more days until he succeeded in the red point ascent.
“As for the level of difficulty, I suggest 9b. For the upper key point there is a simpler solution compared to Stefano's beta. The way Stefano climbed the route, it is certainly 9b / b +. "
Adam Ondra
The beta used by Adam Ondra is a bit morpho, but overall simpler. In his announcement, Adam Ondra emphasizes his great appreciation for setting up this dream route through Stefano Ghisolfi and the quick ascent Laura Rogora.
Does the devaluation reduce Laura Rogora's performance?
The Erebor route was set up by Stefano Ghisolfi during the lockdown in spring 2020 with the support of Severino Scassa and first climbed in January 2021. Ghisolfi suggested a rating of 9b / +, which makes Erebor the most difficult route in Italy.
A few weeks ago, the young Italian Laura Rogora made headlines. She managed the second ascent of the route, with which the 20-year-old wrote climbing history. A woman has never climbed a route with this level of difficulty. So far, the limit for women was 9b.
The devaluation is all the more explosive Adam Ondra. Should the grade level off at 9b in the future, the race for the first female ascent of a route would be more difficult than 9b reopened.
“I am aware that I could be criticized for devaluing the route that was recently freely climbed by a woman. The fact that Laura Erebor climbed is one of the most impressive achievements in climbing history. The evaluation proposal is my honest opinion and it is not about diminishing the performance of Laura Rogora. I am much more convinced that she can climb more difficult routes than Erebor. "
Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra visiting Erebor
That might interest you
- Video: Stefano Ghisolfi on the most difficult route in Italy: Erebor (9b / +)
- Janja Garnbret is the first woman to climb 8c onsight: Fish Eye
- Interview with Angela Eiter on the commission of La Planta de Shiva (9b)
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Credits: Cover picture Art of Route