The Swiss professional climber Alex Rohr connects the routes Alpenbitter (8c+/9a) and Renardo Rules (8c/8c+) to Oblivion in the Swiss climbing Mecca Gimmelwald. He rates his new tour with a hard boulder crux as 9a.
After his successful trip to Norway, he succeeds Alex tubein gimmelwald to climb an old project: Oblivion (9a). The line connects the first and lighter part of Alpenbitter (8c+/9a) with a hard 8a+ boulder crux halfway and at the end of the route Renardo Rules (8c/8c+). "There are no real resting points and the main difficulty is getting the four moves of the bouldering crux already slightly pumped," says Alex Rohr.
Oblivion harder than Alpenbitter (8c+/9a)
Alex Rohr had been trying to climb the connection between the Alpenbitter and Renardo Rules routes for a long time. Actually, he had the route before he left for Norway Flatanger want to check off. "But I couldn't climb through it."
Back from Norway, he traveled directly to Gimmelwald to face the open challenge. "I invested another four days until I was finally able to put all the trains together," says Alex Rohr.
Regarding the assessment of Oblivion, he initially hesitated. "When I climbed the Alpenbitter route (8c+/9a) again as a training session after the successful first ascent, I noticed that my new link-up felt harder." That's why Oblivion is now rated 9a.
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Credits: Cover photo John Thornton