An extremely steep, heavily overhanging and fifty meters long: Tyrolean sport climber Angela "Angy" Eiter has successfully completed an extremely demanding first ascent in her Tyrolean homeland. The short film "Erste Sein" documents her week-long struggle with the 9b route, which she christened "Madame Ching", with impressive images.
The route in the Tyrolean Oberland showed no traces of other climbers. As with a difficult puzzle, she had to go step by step, find the right ledges and kicks, and rehearse the appropriate movements before she could start serious attempts to climb through.
I first had to remove the dirt from the rock and the broken handles
Angy Eiter
In 2017 Angy wrote climbing history: She was the first woman to climb 9b
Three years ago, Angy Eiter, with La Planta de Shiva in Spain, was the first woman to complete a route with a level of difficulty 9b (Interview with Angy Eiter). For this year, the Tyrolean was looking for something similar.
Said and done. She describes the route chosen by Angy as "very ruthless". The inspiration came from her husband Bernie Ruech, who drilled the line in spring 2018.
The rock was so fragile that it had to glue some hooks.
Angela Eiter
She faced particularly difficult problems with a jump in the lower area, then in the middle at the key point and finally just before the roof edge with a shoulder pull. For this one movement alone, she specifically trained the muscles in her left shoulder in the climbing hall - and also geared her training precisely to this route in other areas.
She put the emphasis on finger strength, which was crucial in this project.
In the beginning I always failed on the route
Angela Eiter
Almost every move failed at the beginning, which made her mentally insecure. But figuring out how the individual sequences have to be climbed and where the holds are, gave the 34-year-old the incentive when first climbing the route. Her persistence pays off - at the crucial moment she can implement the movements she has practiced for weeks.
In terms of difficulty, she rates the route as difficult as La Planta de Shiva, i.e. 9b. Antsoss gave her a name from a Chinese pirate from the early 19th century.
Madame Ching fought with strong nations - and I fight with heavy moves!
Angy Eiter
Film Erste Sein about the first ascent of Madame Ching by Angy Eiter
That might interest you
- Angy Eiter repeats Adam Ondra's route Pure Dreaming (9a) in Arco
- Laura Rogora climbs as the second woman 9b: Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start
- French Julia Chanourdie climbs 9b route Eagle-4
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Credits: Image material Red Bull Content Pool / eyesprint