The climbing couple Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher announce the successful one-day ascent of the long and demanding route Odyssey on the Eiger.
A week ago, the two of them had to suddenly turn around on the penultimate pitch (of a total of 28 pitches). Babsi and Jacopo got caught in a violent thunderstorm and learned the unpredictability of the Eiger north face know.
The weather was good, but turned completely within a few minutes. We got into a violent storm. It rained from buckets and hailed. Babsi was just climbing a poorly secured pitch, but managed to get back to where she was standing. I was very worried about her because I couldn't see or hear her.
Jacopo Larcher on last week's failed attempt
Three hours later, after a rope jam, the two came completely soaked, hypothermic and exhausted, the two arrived at the foot of the wall and thus at their tent.
We were mega disappointed that we had to turn back so close to the end of the route, but of course we were glad that we made it safely back on the ground. The experience showed us once again how quickly the situation in a wall can change.
Jacopo Larcher
Despite the experiences of last week, the two returned, because a perfect weather window, without the risk of thunderstorms, was announced. The decision, the one-day ascent of the route Odyssey Attacking again was the right thing to do. The two climbed the Odyssey route on the Eiger in just 16 hours.
Information about the route Odyssee in the Eiger north face
Direction: "Odyssey"
Preparation: April 2009th, 2013 until June XNUMXth, XNUMX Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli
First ascent: Robert Jasper, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl - August 2015 - Team Rotpunkt Style
Character: Very serious high alpine bigwall route in the Eiger north face
wall height: 1400 meters
Difficulty: 8a +
Itineraries History: Entry from the Eiger Glacier 2320 meters to the Wandfuß and over the classic north face (Heckmair route, 1938) to the Stollenloch. Continue over the overhanging Rote Fluh and the Czar pier until you get to about 3700 meters (see topo!)
Fuse: sporty with rustproof M10 bolts and partly in "trad style" with hooks. Two sets of Camalots are used for further protection. In an emergency, it is advisable to bring a hammer, 2-2 knife hooks and 3 peckers. (Expo to E2!)
The Topo of the Odyssey route is available here.
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