The weeks of project planning are over. The American professional climber Dave Graham succeeds in the red point ascent of the 9b route Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start in Rodellar.
Last weekend, Dave Graham's long journey to the red point ascent finally came to an end. The 38-year-old invested countless sessions in the long and heavily overhanging route.
During the brutal summer heat, I concentrated on checking out all the little details of the route until I finally found a 130-move sequence that suited me.
Dave Graham
Dave Graham on one of his attempts
On the day of the red point ascent, Dave entered the 9b endurance monster Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start without any expectations. It was one of the last hot days, the humidity was high and there was hardly any wind and Dave's climbing session from the previous day was still in his bones.
Contrary to all expectations, I made it through the roof sequence very tightly. I was so pumped that I almost kicked out when I tried to climb to the resting position. I was sure that as soon as I kept climbing, I would drain off pretty quickly.
Dave Graham
Without really getting the pump out of his arms, Dave climbed off after the rest and fought his way through the physically demanding part of the route to the next resting point.
Once here, the pump has practically manifested itself in the whole body.
Tormented by the pumps and the pain in his toes, Dave pulled out again and started the next sequence. He did it again and at this point a good deal of nervousness came into play, because Dave realized that the red point ascent is not far away.
Once again he shook both arms as best he could and started the final sprint of the route. He followed his solution, which he had rehearsed for days and weeks, to absolute perfection and – clipped the carabiner on the stand.
I couldn't believe I was scoring the route. I still can't. Ali Hulk Extension Sit Start is definitely one of the most formative ascents of my career.
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Credits: Cover picture Jose Luis Palao