The Swiss climber Dimitri Flick scores points on the Finite Infinity route in the Lehn climbing area in Bern, thereby advancing to grade 9a for the first time. In an interview, Dimitri reveals what it took for this success, how he overcame his frustration with the project and to what extent the competitive season played into his hand.
Dimitri Flick has recently Finite Infinity (9a), the test piece of Matthias King in the Bern climbing area Lehn repeated. For the Swiss climber and route setter, it is the first 9a of his climbing career. His inspections of BaBa Black Sheep (8c+) in Ceüse, Halibut (8c+) in Flatanger or hybris (8c +) in Lehn, however, were clear signs.
Dimitri, what does your success in Finite Infinity mean to you?
Climbing my first 9a is a dream. It shows me that you can achieve anything if you really want it. It was important to me to choose a route that is close by. This to relieve the pressure of not having to travel halfway around the world every time. This would also be ecologically very questionable.
«Climbing my first 9a is a dream. It shows me that you can achieve anything if you really want it."
Dimitri Flick
Can you briefly review the day of the ascent for us?
It was very cold for the first time, about five degrees. For me these are the perfect conditions. A few days earlier I fell on the last heavy pull so I knew it was possible.
Finite Infinity consists of a first very physical, short boulder, followed by a moderate shaker. After that comes a second, longer and technically demanding boulder. Finally you climb a persistent 8b to the top.
"When I clipped the top I couldn't believe it. I was overjoyed."
Dimitri Flick
I got over the first boulder, not perfect but okay, and said to myself: "Come on!" The first part of the second boulder went better than ever. The fight began in the upper part of the second boulder and barely held the last hold. After that I had to climb to the top.
I had practiced this part well, but I was still very nervous. But it went smoothly. I almost flew through the trains. When I clipped the top I couldn't believe it. I was overjoyed.
How do you deal with frustration in longer projects?
In the past, when trying a route for a long time, I often got impatient. Often the conditions influenced me a lot, which then frustrated me. With Finite Infinity I had a different strategy. I took every day as it is.
When the conditions were bad I honed the movements and when they were good I gave attempts. So I made progress practically every day. I either found a better beta, became more efficient, or was able to set a new highpoint.
«This is something I learned on this route: be patient and take every day as it is. Do everything you can influence and accept everything else."
Dimitri Flick
Finite Infinity is your only 9a, how did that come about?
I trained a lot for a long time and made practically no progress. In 2019 I broke my foot in Ticino. I used this time to train. As soon as I could put my climbing shoe back on, I scored my first 8c. From then on things went up.
«In the summer of 2021 I was able to climb my first 8c+ with BaBa Black Sheep in Céüse. This opened up new goals for me. »
Dimitri Flick
I started competing in 2020. This gave me a new appeal. In the summer of 2021 I was able to climb my first 8c+ with BaBa Black Sheep in Céüse. This opened up new goals for me. On my first visit a few years ago, I didn't have a chance at Stil im Lehn.
That seems to have changed in the meantime.
I came back in autumn 2021 and was able to climb Mission Miranda (8c) within two days. After that I put my focus on Hybris (8c +). From my point of view one of the best lines in Switzerland in this grade. It was a dream that ended sooner than expected. I was able to climb it on the ninth attempt.
"In my opinion, hubris is one of the best lines in Switzerland at this level."
Dimitri Flick
The line Finite Infinity by Matthias König immediately caught my eye. I saw it on my first visit to Lehn along this route and was fascinated. When I first checked them out in early winter 2021, I was immediately inspired and couldn't wait to try them again in spring.
And what happened next?
In the new year I had about three days before it got too warm and the competition season started. In 2022 I qualified for my first international competitions. With my 13th place in Arco and my 5th place at the European Cup in Zilina, I made it into the Swiss national team in 2023.
«After the end of the competition season, I had had enough of the plastic and was very motivated to bring my fitness to the rock. »
Dimitri Flick
After the end of the competition season, I was fed up with the plastic and was very motivated to take my fitness to the rock. I wanted to fully focus on Finite Infinity. However, it was still too warm. So for the first few days I concentrated on practicing the sequences.
The starting boulder is very intense and you can't chalk it. So I had to rely on cold and dry conditions. I made good progress and after about six days I was able to climb the route on November 6, 2022.
How is it for you to look back on Finite Infinity with a little time lag?
I am very happy and proud of myself. However, there is also some melancholy in my heart, as I really enjoyed the process on the route.
That might interest you
- This is how Alex Honnold climbs The Phoenix (7c +) free solo
- Avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe: The Bächli Safety Set for emergencies
- Simon Lorenzi climbs Raboutou's Alphane (9A)
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Rainer Eder