Once again, fixed quickdraws were stolen by strangers in the Basler Jura - although most of them were mounted with maillons. The local climbers wonder and call the thief to reason.
The Lange Wand sector on the Falkenfluh is one of the sport climbing jewels in the Basler Jura. The slightly overhanging, around thirty meter long wall looks repellent at first glance - but it has holes, ledges and slopers that make it a climbing paradise.
However, there is nothing to be gained under 8a; the classics such as Schmunzelmonster (8a +), La Belle Vie (8b) or L`amour direkt (8b +) are all reserved for more ambitious climbers. Since the hooks are far apart and not exactly easy to clasp, many exes were fixed in place - a service of the local climbers. Some people should have been happy about it, as it makes bouldering out the complex routes a lot easier.
But now the social express-share practice is over for the time being and perhaps the patience of local climbers is over. Because the exes on the long wall were stolen again and again. Who is behind this can only be speculated.
Material for several hundred francs
One thing is certain: if you want to climb the Lange Wand, you have to be able to climb some difficult passages. Abseiling from above is almost impossible in view of the thicket on the Fluh. So the culprit cannot be a novice, which makes the matter all the more astonishing. Because usually advanced climbers in particular try to comply with rules and codes in climbing gardens in their own interest.
“Around 25 new exes, some of which were even fitted with maillons, were expanded. For this, old scrap exes were left behind in some places, ”reports Dominic Erny, who had only recently attached the new slings with his colleagues. He estimates the total material value at several hundred francs. “If we leave fixed material behind in the Basel Jura, we make sure that it is good material, in other words: steel carabiners where it makes sense. Ground exes will be replaced early. "
Found prey for brazen thieves. Previously, fixed exes had been stolen in other areas in the Basler Jura, such as on the Chuenisberg, on the Tüfleten or in Soyhières - all in routes from 8b onwards. With the renewed and, above all, large-scale incident, Exenklau seems to be slowly but surely becoming systematic in the Basler Jura.
As if it were about diamonds
The fact that someone uses climbing gardens instead of obtaining their material legally is remarkable in several ways. At least 25 (!) Exes were removed from the long wall, with almost as many maillons having to be unscrewed. So that takes time - how do you stay unmolested?
The Falkenfluh is very well attended at this time of year. If you don't want to be seen, you have to go to work at night or in intense rain, which almost gives the thing a certain comic, because - as a reminder - it's about exes, not diamonds.
The thief deserves both admiration and pity for his commitment. According to Erny, it can be ruled out that this is someone from the local scene, because: “The scene here is small, we know each other. Assuming someone had bothered about the practice of fixed exes, then that would have been discussed. "
Dominic Erny appeals to reason: “Whoever has plugged in the exes should be happy to simply put them back on the wall foot or, better, put them back in right away.” Everything else is pointless, because: “The exes are easy to recognize and we will keep your eyes open. "
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Credits: Chris Frick (cover picture)