On August 5, 2020, the German professional climber Alexander Megos managed the first ascent of the Bibliography route in Céüse. The route is the world's second 9c. The film by its sponsor Patagonia tells the story behind the first ascent.
Invested 60 climbing days spread over several years Alexander Megos. in the first ascent of Bibliography (9c). A completely new experience for Alex. Because he usually makes short work of difficult routes. It was he who joined in 2013 Estado Critico was the first in the history of climbing to be able to flash a 9a route.
Bibliography: Unparalleled physical and mental challenge
Projecting a single route over such a long period of time, apart from the physical challenge, is a mental roller coaster.
Again and again there were doubts whether the route could be climbed at all. Whether I was too optimistic.
Alexander Megos.
Two aspects were of central importance for the on-site visit. On the one hand, the world was under the spell of the corona pandemic, all competitions were canceled and the Summer Olympics postponed for a year. Suddenly had Alex Megos Time - a lot of time. So he decided to go to Céüse as soon as possible. The second catalyst for the ascent was the moment when Alex was able to climb the bouldering section of the route from below.
That was definitely a key event. I was finally able to climb over the key point from the start. So I knew I could climb the route.
Alexander Megos.
Alexander Megos during the first ascent of bibliography in Céüse
That might interest you
In episode # 2 of the BETA show, we look into the question of who will climb 9c next and which 9c route will be repeated first.
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Credits: Cover picture Patagonia