The Franco-Swiss team consisting of Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer is making a new route to the probably so far unclimbed northern summit of the Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal. The route leads through steep, combined terrain through the west wall.
On the 8. October, Charles Noirot (FRA), Symon Welfringer (FRA) and Silvan Schüpbach (SUI) the base camp on the edge of Trakarding Glacier on 4700 meter. During the acclimatization phase, the trio observed the first visit of the west wall by the Americans Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau. Knowing that the central west wall has now been climbed, the three climbers decided to try a line further to the left to reach not the main summit but the north summit.
On the 16. October, the team, now well acclimatized, returns to base camp. Charles falls ill the next day and remains weakened for climbing the rest of the time. A first attempt on the mountain must Symon and Silvan due to snowfall and wind break off. The two have to wait a few days until the weather becomes more stable again.
On the 26. October, the time has come and the two climbers can finally start. On this first day of climbing, the two alpinists climb two pitches of steep ice to reach the snowy slope, which is as steep as 60 °. Now less demanding, the two make good progress and find a bivouac on about 6100 meters. Wind and Spindrift have caused a chilly climate so far, but on the second day the weather got good.
The dividing wall and the thinning air slowed the ascent. After a long search, the two were able to find a bivouac place a little off the route - with the last daylight.
“I climb another pitch because I think I've seen a podium. Once at the top I notice that the place is unsuitable and climb down again. Suddenly I discover a small niche in the side wall of our couloir. Symon leads up a demanding pitch and actually finds a good bivouac! What luck. Without this bivouac we would probably not have recovered and been ready for the long day on the summit the next day. "
Silvan Schüpbach
On the third day, the two start from the bivouac to about 6450 meters. They leave the bivouac equipment behind and climb over vertical ice and technically demanding rock passageways. Shortly before the summit, fragile snow ribs and a last rise in the rock once again call for all forces. Then the two finally stand on the spacious summit plateau, which is according to altimeter 6820m high.
Since it is already 16 clock, the two alpinists lose no time and start rappelling. With the help of the headlamps the two reach their bivouac 4 hours later. On the fourth day, the two climbers rappel the last 1000 meters to the wall foot. Symon and Silvan arrived at base camp one day before departure.
Trinité, west wall Tengi Ragi Tau, Rowaling Himalayas, Nepal
New route through the west wall: Trinité, 1400 Meter, M6, AI 5, 26.-29. October 2019 Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach
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Credits: picture and text Silvan Schüpbach