The best climbing time is approaching: the grip is good, the temperatures are not too hot, the colorful forests shine in the shallow sunlight - and far below us the sea of fog opens up. In cooperation with Bächli Bergsport we present our tips for unforgettable climbing days in autumn.
Elsigen: Vis-à-vis the Niesen chain
The west-facing limestone rock above Elsigalp has a long tradition. In 1983, when sport climbing was still in its infancy, the first routes were drilled here. The degrees of difficulty in the solid limestone rock are mostly medium to high. Advanced climbers have a lot to do here, while beginners are more likely to be thrown into the deep end. Due to the western orientation, the rock is still in the shade in the morning, but then gains more and more sun during the day.
- Exhibition: West
- Altitude: 1770 m above sea level M.
- Approach: Via Elsigalp (cable car), then 30 minutes on foot
- Topos: Filidor Extrem West, SAC Bernese Oberland
- Trouble: 5b-8b
Orvin: The Jura bijoux
At 1000 m above sea level M. Orvin is not necessarily a safe value to lie permanently above the sea of fog. But just above it is also the most beautiful. The Roches d'Orvin on the sunny Jura range offers a total of 15 sectors. Accordingly, every climber will find something here: There are simpler slabs and vertical to overhanging walls. Typically for the Jura, the rock is not always completely solid, so wearing a helmet is recommended. Climbing here is also good on mild winter days.
- Exposure: south
- Altitude: 1000 m above sea level M.
- Approach: From Orvin on foot approx. 30 min.
- Topos: Filidor Plaisir Jura, SAC Bernese Jura
- Trouble: 5c-7c
Fallenflue: The pearl in central Switzerland
On the map, the V-shaped rock bar high above the Muota valley looks like a ship's bow. Access is from above, so that you stand on narrow bands in the middle of the wall when you start climbing. This results in an exposure that is otherwise only known from multi-pitch climbing. When the fog moves in far below, the feeling of freedom is at its maximum. The Fallenflue offers a variety of sectors with different orientations. Lucas Iten almost single-handedly set up around 200 routes here.
- Exposure: Northwest and south
- Altitude: 1200 m above sea level M.
- Approach: From the high plateau Fallenfluewald descend into the wall, approx. 40 minutes.
- Topos: Topoverlag Fallenflue
- Trouble: 5b-8b
Äscher: Solitude not far from the hustle and bustle
If you arrive here on a sunny day, don't be frightened! Yes, the parking lot is well filled ... The region is considered a hiking paradise and the cozy Gasthaus Äscher, built against the rocks, has long gone viral on social media. Nevertheless, you can also find solitary seclusion here. Once at the rock, the climbers are among themselves. Thanks to the cable car, the ascent is shortened quite comfortably. Depending on the sector, you are on the road for 10 minutes to half an hour - and you are already out of the hustle and bustle. Only the cowbells still ring from afar. The choice is huge, especially for climbers with a level of 6c to 7b. You can even climb here in winter.
- Exposure: south
- Altitude: 1500 m above sea level M.
- Approach: by cable car to Ebenalp, then 10 to 30 minutes on foot
- Topos: Filidor Plaisir Ost, Extrem Ost, SAC Leader Alpstein
- Trouble: 5b to 7c
Üschene: High above the Kandertal
Finally, something for multi-pitch fans. The limestone bar above the lonely Üschenental awaits with a multitude of sunny multi-pitch lengths with a fantastic backdrop of the Bernese snow peaks from Altels via Doldenhorn to Blüemlisalp. From 4a to 6b there is most of them here, and climbing history also took place here in the 70s - in 1978, Jürg von Känel climbed two routes with the Nutcracker and Vector in the just opened 7th grade. In 1988, further milestones were added with Fusion (8a) and Bschüttigütti (8a +). Today Üschene is especially popular with those who move in the lower levels of difficulty up to 6a. In the family route sector you will find splendid water-eaten slabs. The Graue Wand sector is also popular.
- Exposure: Southeast
- Altitude: 1900 m above sea level M.
- Approach: With the cable car to Allmenalp, then 1 hour on foot
- Topos: Filidor Plaisir West, Extrem West, climbing guide Bernese Oberland North
- Trouble: 4a to 8a +
That might interest you
- In these areas, you also climb in the winter months in the T-shirt
- Albbruck - 132 climbing routes in the most beautiful gneiss
About Bächli mountain sports
Bächli mountain sports is the leading Swiss specialist shop for climbing, mountaineering, expeditions, hiking, ski touring and snowshoeing. Currently offering 11 locations in Switzerland Bächli mountain sports its customers expert advice and high quality service. LACRUX publishes in collaboration with Bächli mountain sports Articles on the topics of climbing and bouldering.
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Credits: Edition Filidor (cover picture)