A few days ago, the American Jonathan Siegrist managed the third repetition of the 9b route Lapsus in the Italian climbing area Andonno. Depending on the type of inspection, Siegrist suggests a devaluation.
Jumbo Love, La Planta de Shiva and now Lapsus. Climbs for the third time Jonathan Siegrist a 9b route. Siegrist planned the route Lapsus for the first time during a visit to Europe in March 2020, shortly before the world was upside down. A little over a year later, he returned to Italy to complete the open project.
Lapsus is a real endurance problem on a beautiful wall. I thoroughly enjoyed the style of the route.
Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has the route, same as Stefano Ghisolfi on the first free ascent without a Kneepad. “It was important to me to have the same challenge and climb the route the same as Stefano,” said Siegrist, commenting on his ascent.
Stefano Ghisolfi and the first ascent of Lapsus
The Lapsus route is a combination of the Noia (8c +) and Anaconda (8c) lines. The combined route was climbed free for the first time by the Italian Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015 and rated it 9b. It was the first route of this degree in Italy.
2017 caught up with Adam Ondra the first repetition of Lapsus and said that the rating was probably a little too high. Marcello Bombardi, who secured the second repetition of the route in spring, also questioned grade 9b. In the case of Bombardi, however, it must be mentioned that he climbed the route with a kneepad and was able to use a resting point in front of the key point.
Siegrist is now making a similar move. If you walk without a Kneepad, the route can be classified as an easy 9b, if you climb Lapsus with a Kneepad, Siegrist gives the line a 9a +.
All in all, it can be said that the Lapsus route can be described as 9b (soft) and can still be rated 9a + with the help of a Kneepad.
I still have a few weeks to enjoy my time here in Italy and maybe that's just the beginning.
Jonathan Siegrist
Wherever the level ultimately levels off, Jonathan Siegrist seems to be in top form and bursting with motivation. We are looking forward to the next success story from the American.
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Credits: Cover picture Jonathan Siegrist