The Austrian Katharina Saurwein gets the third ascent of the Trad-Route Tainted Love (8b) in Squamish backpack, British Columbia. With Katha climbed her partner Jorg Verhoeven, who also scored the route.
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven have been at the beginning of October Squamish backpack, British Columbia. After a few “warm-up tours”, the two succeeded in the red point ascent of the week before last Trad route Tainted Love (8b). “Jorg Verhoeven and I both sent 'Tainted Love' 5.13d, our hardest trad climb so far! At first it felt impossible, I had to learn how to move in that dihedral, how to position my body without loosing balance. On our fourth day on it we decided to try leading it. I didn't plan on giving it an actual go, but I felt really good and everything went better than expected. So I kept climbing, did move after move and when I reached the top mantle I couldn't believe it. Couldn't believe I just did it and couldn't believe how amazing this line climbs, ”she comments on the ascent of her most difficult trad route to date.
First ascent by Hazel Findlay
The testpiece in British Columbia is only about a year old, but already has some well-known aspirants / enthusiasts. In May of this year it was the Finnish boulderer Nalle Hukkataivallooking at the route. The first repetition was won by the Belgian Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll in July of that year. The third / fourth ascent was made by the climbing couple Jorg / Katharina.
Hazel Findlay at the first ascent of Tainted Love
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Credits: Cover picture Jon Glassberg, Picture in the article Jess Talley