Kletter ABC: You should know these terms when climbing and bouldering

Whether Dab, Egyptians, Dülfer or Clip Stick. In today's article you will find the most important terms in climbing and bouldering. Of course, the list is not exhaustive. Additions are welcome, you can enter them in the comment field at the end of the article. For an optimal view of the table you have to hold the smartphone across.

A lexicon for climbing and bouldering

TermsynonymDescription
slimmedglassyA smoother rock surface caused by sweat and mechanical stress, which makes gripping and pedaling difficult.
drainLower a climber hanging on a rope to the ground or to a stand.
rappellingRoute with solid fixed points for abseiling in a higher rock face.
descentsThe terrain under a boulder.
DescentThe route from the end of a route back to the starting point.
figure eight knotWidely used knot for roping up.
ape indexTerm for a number that is calculated from arm span and body height.
EgyptianDropknee, LolotteTerm for a specific climbing leg position with a knee turned inwards, which is visually reminiscent of walking Egyptians on historical paintings.
rope upEstablishing a non-positive connection between climber and rope.
belay loopPart of the climbing harness that connects hip and leg loops. Loop to which a rope, a belay device or a self-belaying sling is attached.
competeThe placing and straining of the foot on a kick.
Apersnow-free (no snow from rock faces, ice walls and glaciers).
artificielFrench for artificial; Synonymous with technical climbing.
ATCThe brand name of the tubes sold by the manufacturer Black Diamond.
Raised fingersFull CrimpFinger position when holding grips with fingers that are relatively strongly bent and a closed hand position in which the thumb can support the index finger by applying pressure. This posture makes it easier to hold small groins, but puts a lot of strain on the finger joints.
trailerSloperRound, sloping handle.
Ausboulderncheck-OutFinding out the movement sequences of a climbing route.
compensation anchoringThe connection of two or more fixed points with a loop, which is then used to secure self and external security at the central one.
Ausklettern Easy climbing at the end of a climbing training with the aim of positively influencing the recovery.
Base ClimbShort sport climbing route at the beginning of a high rock face.
committing styleThe way in which a climbing route is climbed.
BetaAdvance information about a climbing route.
Big WallHigh rock face with many pitches that often takes several days to climb.
BoltboltsEnglish synonym for bolt.
Boulder blockBoulderA few meters high boulder that is suitable for bouldering.
boulderingClimbing discipline in which a boulder is climbed up to the jump height without belay devices.
brake handThe hand of the belayer that holds and handles the brake cable.
brake cableThat section of the rope that runs from the belay device in the direction of the belayer and on which a fall of the climber is slowed down.
CamalotThe product name of a special two-axis and widely used clamping device from Black Diamond.
ChalkMagnesiumBasic magnesium carbonate in powder form for drying the hands from hand perspiration before and during climbing.
Chalkbagmagnesium BeutelSmall, sealable carrying bag filled with magnesia, into which a hand can be inserted to dry.
chipStriking or drilling handles on natural rocks. This is an absolute taboo!
Clip stickCheater stickTelescope-like device, which is used to hang an exe with an attached rope in a higher-lying bolt that cannot be reached by hand.
clippingHang the rope in a snap hook.
CrashpadPortable soft landing mat for bouldering.
CruxAlso key point, the most difficult single point on a climbing route.
DabLightly touching the crash pad or other structure during a bouldering move.
Dead PointDynamic grasping in the deadlock, where gravity is not noticeable for a short moment after a swinging movement.
Deep Water SoloingShort form DWS, PsicoblocFree solo climbing over deep water.
DirettissimaIn as straight line as possible walk on a rock wall.
Double-DynamoDouble DynoWith both hands simultaneous, quick gripping or starting a handle.
DrytoolingClimbing with ice ax and crampons on rock and artificial walls without ice.
DülfernLaybackingClimbing in stepless passages with side grips (often in the form of a cracked edge) using counter-pressure technology.
DynamoDynoClimbing technique in which a grip is achieved by jumping off or by quickly gripping from an unstable body position.
EntryStart of a climbing route.
first ascentFirst Ascent (FA)First ascent of a route or boulder.
ExeExpressTwo snap carabiners connected with a sling, which are used to secure climbing routes.
exposedexposedExposure to a route that could result in a large fall in the event of an unsecured fall.
quickdrawThe noose that connects the two snap carabiners of an express set.
Figure of FourClimbing position when climbing, in which the climber hangs one leg over an arm to compensate for a missing step.
fingerboardFingerboard, fingerboardBeam or board made of wood or plastic with different handles for training.
fixed pointReliable attachment point for securing when climbing or mountaineering.
fixed ropeFirmly anchored rope.
FlashConquering a climbing route that is still unknown to the climber, whereby information about the route is known (beta) or is called out during the climb.
Fontainebleauskala Difficulty scale for the evaluation of bouldering problems which is abbreviated with Fb for Fontainebleau (example Fb 7b).
Free SoloFree climbing without rope and without any security.
Free climbingClimbing only with the help of natural grips and steps. Rope and hook are only used to prevent falls.
FriendDefinite and historically first clamping device ever (producer: Wild Country); After the introduction of similar products from other manufacturers, it was also used as a generic name for clamping devices with a similar functional principle.
GastonTerm for a side grip, which is held against the climber's body in the direction of pull and from which the body is pushed or fixed away from the shoulder upwards or to the side.
GreenpointGreenpoint climbing is a clean ascent (placing mobile backups in the lead) of a route that can also be secured with Bolts.
grigriSpecial semi-automatic belay device from Petzl.
grounderCrash on the ground or on a tape.
Semi-automatic belay devicesemi-automaticGeneric name for a class of belay devices that block the rope in the device in the event of a fall without or with little use of the brake handset, provided the device functions and is used correctly. For safety reasons, the braking hand principle must always be observed with these devices when securing and lowering.
Munter hitchHMSBackup node.
half ropeRope that can only be used in two strands in the lead. It is mostly used in multi-pitch climbing.
shimmyClimbing without feet, only with your hands.
Hanging fingersCertain grip finger position with relatively stretched fingers and an open hand position (see also full crimp and crimp).
Haul bagMaterial sack that is pulled from stand to stand when climbing big walls.
heel hookUse the heel under tension or pressure to move or achieve a stable body position.
HenkelTerm for a large, good grip for all fingers.
HighballHigh boulder problem with possible dangerous falls.
Hook(1) Short form for toe and heel hooks. (2) Device that is attached to rock structures during technical climbing and serves as a fixed point.
IFSCInternational Federation of Sport Climbing, international umbrella organization for competitive climbing.
JümarenThe technique of climbing on a fixed rope with the help of two ascenders, named after the ascender Jümar.
CarbinecarabinerHook with spring-loaded snap lock.
clamping wedgewedgeWedge-shaped metal block, which is clamped in cracks as a fixed point.
knee KlemmerThe jamming of the lower leg between two contact points on the rock by creating pressure between the foot and knee or thigh.
rosinpofA resin that is wrapped in a permeable ball of cloth and used as a substitute or supplement for magnesia when bouldering in sandstone.
crusadeClimbing movement in which the reaching hand crosses the plumb line of the holding hand.
stripCrimpOn the one hand, crimp / bar denotes a straight and usually rather small handle shape. On the other hand, crimp is also used to designate the finger position. (half-raised finger position).
MantleSupport up on a handle. Often necessary at the exit of a boulder.
Multi-pitch routeRoute with several pitches.
IceclimbingClimbing routes with ice and rock passages, which are usually mastered with ice axes and crampons.
Mobile securityDevices that are used to temporarily set up fixed points, such as B. Wedges and slings.
sewing machineColloquial term for strong muscle tremors while climbing.
No-Hand-restRest point at which the hands are not needed to hold the rock structure.
Open doorThe climbing problem of turning the climber sideways out of the wall (like a door that opens).
Offwidth crackCrack too wide to pinch your fist but narrower than a chimney.
onsight Red dot ascent of a climbing route in the first attempt without having received information about movements and holds in the route before or during the ascent.
partner checkFour-eyes principleMutual control of the climbing partners to ensure that all safety measures have been completed correctly.
Pink PointHistorical: Red point inspection, where the intermediate safeguards were already attached before the inspection. Is no longer differentiated from red point today.
PlacementSuitable place for placing a mobile belay device.
Plaisir climbingSynonym for enjoyment climbing.
portaledgeLight platform for sleeping on big wall climbs.
ProblemSynonymous with bouldering, a short route that is taken at jump height without a climbing rope.
PrusikA terminal node that contracts under load.
PumpWith continuous exertion of the fingers, hard, thickened and less powerful muscles in the forearm (pumped arms) due to acidification with lactate
pointsColloquially for red point climbing.
Red circleFree ascent of a route in the lead without resting at the safety points; several attempts, with the last save point reached remaining attached.
RotpunktConquering a climbing route in lead without straining the safety chain.
route ReadThe mental play through of the movement sequences of a route before the actual attempt.
resting placePlace in a climbing route where the climber can relax without straining the safety chain.
runoutUnusually large distance between two intermediate fuses.
hourglassHole open on both sides, where a cord or tape loop can be inserted as an intermediate safety device.
renovateThe replacement and supplementation of old safety material in climbing routes with new material.
key lengthThe hardest pitch within a multi-pitch route.
SeilschaftThe climbing partners on a rope.
SeracGlacier break-off zone in steep terrain.
assurance partnerName for the person who secures a climber.
SikaTwo-component adhesive for stone, which is used for fixing loose stones and the controversial creation of new handles or steps.
sinterLonger organ-pillared vertical rock structures.
speed ascentAs quick as possible to climb a climbing route, usually a multi-pitch route or a big wall.
speed climbingA form of competition in which two climbers compete against one another on two standardized climbing routes on an artificial climbing wall and climb them as quickly as possible.
Sport climbingClimbing with sportive objective.
scoffSafety technology when bouldering. The person standing on the ground ensures that the climber falls on his feet in the event of a fall.
fall factorNumber that quantifies the "hardness" of a fall into the rope (fall height divided by the length of the rope issued = fall factor).
TapeAdhesive tape to support the tapes or to protect the skin.
Technical climbingForm of climbing in which technical aids such as hooks are used not only for securing but also for locomotion (synonyms: artificial climbing, artif climbing).
ToehookUse the top of the toe on tension to move or achieve a stable body position.
TOPThe official end of a route that is normally reached by attaching the diversion.
Top rope or red crossClimbing style in which the rope runs through the stand so that no safety devices have to be attached during climbing.
TopSketch of a climbing route or a climbing garden.
TradkletternInspection style, in which all security points (mobile security devices) are attached themselves and removed after the inspection.
TraverseQuergangClimbing route section or boulder in which you traverse horizontally.
diverterParticularly secure anchor point (often also two bolts connected with a chain) at the end of a climbing route, via which the climber is lowered again.
underclingRoughly horizontal handle that can only be held by pulling upwards.
Urban ClimbingCity Bouldering, BuildingClimbing on buildings and other urban structures.
intersectionTwo rock faces, slabs or packages of rocks that meet - like an open book - on an inner edge.
lead climbingInspection style, in which the rope has to be hooked into the securing points while climbing.
water grooveUsually easy to grip vertical erosion in limestone.
boardingThe distance from the starting point to the route.

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Credits: Cover picture, terms Wikipedia

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1 comment

  1. - Pliers or pliers handle
    - oldschool or newschool (-climbing)
    - adhesive hook
    - Overhang, plate, roof
    - Volume
    - Hole

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