Leo Cea recently climbed Era Vella (9a) in Margalef. For the 11-year-old climber with German-Chilean roots, this is already the third route of this difficulty level.
"I am extremely impressed by this boy and his recent ascent of Era Vella (9a)," enthuses British professional climber Tim Emmett, who was climbing at the same time as Leo Cea and his family were in Margalef. It is astonishing that the 11-year-old is not just the youngest climber in grade 9a, but with Era Vella was able to repeat the third 9a route this year.
Leo Cea: In three years to 9a
Leo Cea grew up in Viña del Mar, Chile, where, according to his biography, he was "formed between the beaches, mountains and forests of Chile." This means that he was already climbing trees and rocks as a child. He started sport climbing at the age of eight. It wasn't long before he was able to climb his first routes at grade 6b.
Just one year after his debut, he climbed the 8a route Sympathy for the Devil barefoot. His motivation for climbing is still undiminished. The transition to structured training is quickly reflected in his ascents. At the age of 10, he climbed his first 8b+.
Video: Leo Cea in the 8b+ route Herejía
On April 20, 2024, he managed to climb Tecnoking (9a) in Las Chilcas, reaching the ninth French grade. This makes Leo Cea the youngest climber in history to climb a route of this difficulty level.
At the end of April he succeeded in his next daring feat: after five days of planning and 11 attempts to climb it, he secured his second 9a ascent with La Nueva Yera. Before Leo scored his third 9a route in Margalef a good six months later, he even managed a first ascent of Tecnoligía at grade 9a in mid-May. However, his variation of Tecnoking has not yet been confirmed in grade.
One thing is certain: Leo Cea has a promising path ahead of him if he can maintain his enthusiasm for climbing, as well as his determination and self-discipline. We agree with Tim Emmett, who wrote after Leo Cea's ascent of Era Vella: "As for Leo, I can't wait to see where his climbing journey takes him, it will be exciting!"
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Credits: Cover picture Tim Emmett