Pumprisse, Czech platter and locker from the stool. The three alpine crack climbing classics in Tiroler Kalk are the dream of many climbers. Martin Sieberer and Hannes Hohenwarter did the three tours by fair means.

A personal report from Martin Sieberer

We have set ourselves the goal of connecting all three routes in three days by fair means and climbing on sight. We used bicycles and trains to get around. The routes are up to 100 kilometers apart in the three mountain ranges Wetterstein, Karwendel and Wilder Kaiser.

We are both budding mountain guides and passionate climbers. For this extraordinary project, several factors have to come together: Our physical and mental fitness, the conditions in the walls and of course the weather.

Loose from the stool - alpine test piece

At the beginning of September 2020 the time has finally come. We start our first route in the Schüsselkar. Loose from the stool was 1981 of Wolfgang Güllich and Kurt Albert first climbed and has since been considered a test piece for ambitious alpine climbers.

A fine crack runs from the floor through the steep plate armor and marks the almost clean 1st length. After a short traverse, you have to overcome a crisp slab before the way up is free. We can climb the route on sight. What a start. After the descent, the bike goes almost 30 kilometers and 1000 meters in altitude in the middle of the Karwendel to our next hurdle

Dreamlike rock in the route Locker from the stool in the Schüsselkar.
Dreamlike rock in the route Locker from the stool in the Schüsselkar.

The Czech platter - a natural jewel right on your doorstep

To our regret, the wall is damp and the first crack is completely wet. We can climb all lengths freely, even if we feel like the bus has run over us after getting out. Time flies and we are already on the way to our final destination.

After a long fall in the first difficult length, we concentrate on the red dot.

Czech slab climbing route

The legendary Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser

By bike, train and on foot we reach our night camp in zombie mode after sunset. In the morning we are exhausted from the exertions in front of our last hurdle.

The 1st length of the pump crack becomes a tensile test.

After a long fall, we both test our bomber friend N ° 4. After a short break, the length is successful and the way up is open. We climb the rest of the way on sight and get off at the top, completely exhausted but overjoyed.

Pumprisse climbing route

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Credits: Pictures Christian Plantelt and Stefan Filzmoser

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