The 24-year-old climber from Bern opens two difficult routes in the Bernese Oberland and Jura. Both routes, duds and La Danse de Résistance, are in area 9a.
Yesterday we received the email from Dimitri Vogt, in which he reports on his most recent successes on the rock. He climbs the ninth French grade twice - and in both cases it is the first time.
“In September and now in November I was able to freely climb two of my big projects. One in Unterwald, the other in Soyhières. "
Dimitri Vogt
The route in Unterwald is an old project by Andi Mürner. "The line is super cool, with persistent, difficult features," writes Dimi. The 24-year-old named the route "dud" for two reasons:
"In the middle of the route there is a key point where you never really know whether you will make it or not - and from the route you look directly at the buried Mitholtz munition camp, where there are still some duds."
Dimitri Vogt
As for the level of difficulty, Dimitri appreciates the route Unexploded ordnance than 9a a. The second big line that he managed last Friday is probably a tad more difficult. In Soyhières he managed the most difficult route of his career to date, La Danse de Resistance. La Danse is also a first ascent, which he classifies as a difficult 9a.
La Danse is certainly a 9a, maybe even a 9a +? I don't want to commit myself too tightly. Time will tell ... "
Dimitri Vogt
The La Danse route is a complex and physically demanding route on a 60 ° steep roof. It is peppered with numerous holes and small sintered structures, but has no real resting point - a true endurance route.
“The route is absolutely amazing. The movements are very special and complex and you can climb a lot with hooks - which is exactly what I love! "
Dimitri Vogt
La Danse de Résistance was set up in 1989 by Philippe Steulet and furnished with five indoor handles glued on using Sika. The line was then traded as 8c. Despite ambitious attempts by climbers such as Françis Legrand, the tour deteriorated over the years and only experienced a revival 30 years later.
Young climbers suspected that the route could be done without the artificial grips and removed them. Since last Friday we have been certain that the new generation of climbers was right and that the route can be done without plastic - thanks to Dimitri Vogt.
UPDATE: First repetition by Sascha Lehmann
Two days after Dimitri Vogt's first ascent, the route was repeated for the first time. It was Sascha Lehmann who was also able to crack La Danse de Résistance. As Sascha tells LACRUX, he suggests the route 9a + as the degree of difficulty.
“I have never climbed more difficult than 9a so far, but this route is more difficult than the 9a's that I have scored so far. I therefore suggest 9a + and I am excited to see what future repeaters will say. "
Sascha Lehmann
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Credits: Pictures Hannes Tell