A few days ago the Frenchman Nico Pelorson succeeded in repeating the 9a boulder Soudain Seul. He suggests a rating of 8c +.
In previous articles we have Nico Pelorson referred to as tough devalors. He lives up to this name again. In an interview with the French magazine Fanatic Climbing, when asked about the rating, he replied that he Soudain Seul classified as 8c +.
I think there are many climbers in the world who could climb the boulder with enough investment and that would not be the case with a real 9a boulder. But that's just my personal opinion, I respect Simon Lorenzi's opinion. Especially because the boulder could have been a bit more difficult with its body size.
So only one 9a boulder in the world
So far, a 9a rating has been given for a boulder three times. This is the first time the Finn has reached out to this high degree Nalle Hukkataival in October 2016, when he got through his long-term project, Burden of Dreams, succeeded. Since then, numerous great climbers have tried their hand at the boulder - all without success.
No Kpote Only quickly questioned
Three years later there was another murmur in the climbing scene as the barefoot climber Charles Albert his first ascent No Kpote Only rated 9a. But just two months later, the difficulty level was down from Japanese Ryohei Kameyama questioned. Ryohei tried Burden of Dreams and said at the time that No Kpote Only was easier and could possibly be classified in the area of 8c + / 9a.
In October 2020 No Kpote Only was repeated one more time, by Nico Pelorson. Regarding the difficulty, he was a little clearer than Ryohei and said:
With climbing shoes and the optimized beta, I find No Kpote Only a solid 8c. The line climbs super, thanks to Charles Albert for the first ascent of the boulder.
Nico Pelorson
Same game at Soudain Seul
It now seems similar Soudain Seul (Big Island Assis). At the beginning of February 2021, the Belgian Simon Lorenzi got the first ascent of the famous sit-start boulder in Fontainebleau. Modified climbing shoes, a Book under the kneepad and perfect external conditions were necessary before the ascent worked. All of this led Simon to take the 9a degree.
But then Nico Pelorson came along. And he knows no mercy. Routes from Alexander Megos. had to believe in it, No Kpote Only and now Soudain Seul. But there is still evidence against evidence. Where the level of difficulty of Soudain Seul lies will only become apparent when more people repeat the line and give their opinion. At least in the past, some greats in the scene have tried their hand at such as Jimmy Webb and Co.
That might interest you
A video with Nico Pelorson about Soudain Seul.
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Credits: Cover picture Arkose climbing