The 16-year-old Nicolo Balducci from Domodossola climbed one of the heaviest Trad routes in the world a few days ago: Gondo Crack (8c) in the sector Cippo at Gondo.
Nicolo only started climbing five years ago, and he's already causing a stir. Not only does he manage a difficult route, he also climbs it trad style. "I had the luck, Barbara and Jacopo cross the spring 2017 to follow ”, says Nicolo to LACRUX. That of course motivated and inspired me. “I knew at the time that a route of this level of difficulty was far away for me, but I was determined to try Gondo Crack in the future,” continues the 16-year-old.
One year later red dot climbed with bolts
For a long time, Nicolo did not let the route sit on top of him and scored Gondo crack Already in spring 2018, but then still in the classic style with the drilled bolts.
"There weren't many challenges left in the climbing areas in the valley, so I tackled the Trad-style Gondo Crack."
The idea of trying to climb the Gondo Crack in the Trad style was not very much enjoyed by Nicolo's father. At some point, however, he agreed.
Trad-style tours will not be long in coming
Fortunately, Nicolo's father gave the green light and let his offspring climb the gondo crack in the Trad style. On the 14. In November, Nicolo managed the third redpoint ascent in the Trad style. He is thus probably the youngest climber who climbed a 8c route in the Trad style.
“I am extremely pleased to have successfully completed the“ Gondo Crack ”project. The next trad project is already waiting, but I'm not going to reveal any more yet. "
Video by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher's inspection of the Gondo Crack
About the route Gondo Crack
The Gondo Crack is a 17-meter long crack line that was set up by the two Italians Allesandro Manini and Maurizio Pellizzon at the end of the 90s. It took 20 years for the climbing couple Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher to climb the route in the red point trad style in spring 2017. Before them, the British crack climbing specialist Tom Randell tried to score the route. Tom was on the route several times. He even stuck a wedge to his shirt so that he could place it more quickly.
—
Credits: picture Matteo Pasquetto