In Flatanger, Norway, Seb Bouin is currently pulling one difficult route after another. First he secured the first repetition of Adam Ondra's Iron Curtain (9b), later he scored the second pitch of Thor's Hammer (9a/+) in just nine attempts. Now he wants to climb through the entire Flatanger Cave at its most overhanging point. A new 9c?
As the Seb Bouin recently Iron curtain (9b) repeated and one for the ascent with kneepad Proposed devaluation to 9a+, he was still unsure about his next big project: «The Route DNA got me pretty busy. I probably need some more time for the next big one." After the second pitch of Thor's Hammer (9a/+) a week ago the 9c virus seems to have grabbed him again. "I'm psyched that I did the first rep. And now for something even bigger."
Multi-pitch route with 9c potential
Seb Bouin's vision is to Hanhelleren Cave in Flatanger to climb through at its steepest point. Drilled in by the Norwegian Magnus Midtbo leads the multi-pitch route from the deflector of Nordic Plumber/Thor's Hammer to the edge of the roof. Adam Ondra connected the first two pitches of the line to a 2012-meter endurance hammer with the first ascent of Thor's Hammer (9a/+) in 60. In 2017 he managed the last 25 meters in grade 9a+.
Video: How Dave Graham climbs Thor's Hammer
According to Seb Bouin, there are three entry options for the mega route through the entire strongly overhanging roof. First: Via the original route Thor's Hammer, so a long 9a, followed by a tricky 9a+. Second: About Move (9b/+). Third: about Nordic Plumber (8c). «My dream is to join via Move. Adam and I think this line could be 9c."
Tough endurance test
Regardless of the starting route, the difficult part of this project is the stamina required and how to retain enough strength for the final pitch, explains Seb Bouin. "We have to climb about 50 meters just to get to the last pitch."
The line consists of a total of about 80 meters of hard climbing with the crux on the last meters. But that's not all: Above the cave there are still around 50 meters of vertical climbing waiting to be drilled. "The entire line could be about 130 meters long and climbed in one go, with the ropes being changed while climbing," enthuses the strong Frenchman.
Video: Seb Bouin climbs Move
Move Integral as the final goal
It's hard to imagine the overall level of this project, but one thing is certain for Seb Bouin: this final 9a+ pitch is really tough because of the style and combination of cruxes.
To train for the potential 9c, he will certainly try Nordic Plumber or Thor's Hammer first. This combination will probably check in at 9b+ somewhere. “My big goal is then Move Integral To taste." Both he and Adam Ondra believe that this variant could be 9c.
That might interest you
- Seb Bouin on 9c Route DNA: «I had sleepless nights»
- Seb Bouin is the first to repeat the Ondra route Iron Curtain (9b)
- These are the most difficult climbing routes in the world
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Credits: Cover picture Marco Müller