A few days after his success in the Alpstein, the Belgian Siebe Vanhee moved to the nearby climbing area of Rätikon. Within two days he managed the red point ascent of the difficult multi-pitch route Neverending Story (8b +, 11SL).
Long torched Siebe Vanhee with the Kammerlander Tour Neverending History at the 7th Kirchlispitze im Rätikon Not. Siebe used the first day on the route to study the most difficult passages. He was accompanied by Michi Wohllebenwho accompanied him that day.
Compared to the burning sun in the Parzival route in Alpstein last week, we are happy about the great friction.
Sieve Vanhee on the first day of the route
Siebe used the second day to relax, because his fingers were battered from the climb. The first attempt to get through was planned for the third day. Michi Wohlleben put his own project on hold in order to secure sieves when attempting to climb through. The pressure on sieves was great, but his motto was: "Nothing to loose!"
A first stumbling block was waiting for sieves on the fourth pitch (7c +). The start was wet, which is why he needed a second attempt. In the following two key lengths (8b and 8b +), he only needed a second attempt in 8b. One foot slipped off his feet while doing technical slab climbing. The Belgian mastered all the other easier but nevertheless complex pitches without a fall and scored the Neverending Story route on the second day of the tour.
Another Kammerlander test piece done. The route is older than me, amazing!
Siebe Vanhee
During the inspection, Siebe had the feeling that the second key length did not correspond to an 8b +. He saw video recordings of the ascent of the two strong climbers Nina Caprez and Babsi Zangerl on. His conclusion: a central handle has apparently broken out and has thus grown. This means that a long train is possible, making the route easier than it used to be. Siebe Vanhee therefore suggests a difficulty of 8b for this pitch.
The route has become easier due to a broken grip. I suggest 8b for the key length.
Siebe Vanhee
Neverending story at the seventh Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon
The route Never ending Story (8b +, 11 pitches, 400m) was thirty years ago Beat Kammerlander set up and in 1991 freely climbed through the same for the first time. The route remained quiet for a long time; it was considered to be one of the most demanding routes in the entire Alpine region.
It wasn't until 2008 that the Italian succeeded Pietro dal Prà a first repetition of the route. Another seven years passed before the route could be repeated again. Back then it was the two strong climbers Nina Caprez and Babsi Zangerlwho secured only the third and fourth red point ascent of Neverending History.
Video about the inspection of Neverending Story by Barbara Zangerl and Nina Caprez
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Credits: Pictures Michi Wohlleben