Two days ago, the Italian Stefano Ghisolfi succeeded in repeating the Bibliography route that Alexander Megos first started in Céüse. Ghisolfi now communicates that he suggests a level of difficulty of 9b +.
It was the big sensation of 2020. Alexander Megos. climbed an old Céüse project, the route Bibliography, red point and suggested 9c as the level of difficulty. The top German climber invested a total of 60 climbing days over several years in the first free ascent of the line. A completely new experience for Alex. Because he usually makes short work of difficult routes. And so he came to the conclusion: This route is more difficult than anything he has ever climbed before and suggested 9c as the difficulty level.
Bibliography in the state of siege
With the first ascent by Megos, there was a second 9c route that motivated climbers could consider. On the Route Silence of Adam Ondra, hardly anyone dared so far. The contortions Adam Ondra made in the route apparently deterred many. In addition, the trip to Flatanger is more complex than a trip to Céüse in France.
So it came about that the route bibliography was almost under siege from the beginning of the season. Among the most active visitors were Stefano Ghisolfi and Sébastien Bouin, But also Jakob Schubert was on a flying visit after a competition, Dave Graham did gymnastics in the route, to name a few.
Sensational news two days ago
Two days ago the big sensation came: on the last day of his stay, the Italian Stefano Ghisolfi climbed the route Bibliography (9c) rotpunkt. It was the first iteration of a 9c route. But the way he communicated gave an idea of a lot. He never wrote anything about 9c.
Repeated - and devalued
A few hours ago Ghisolfi broke the silence and dropped the bomb.
Yesterday and the day before yesterday I wanted to concentrate on the route to the ascent, on the people around the route Bibliography, and I deliberately avoided the subject of 'evaluation'. But there is no avoiding talking about the degree.
Stefano Ghisolfi
He suggests a rating of 9b +. Ghisolfi compares bibliography with the routes Perfecto Mundo in Margalef and Change in Flatanger, both routes in grade 9b + that he could already climb. Ghisolfi invested around 25 climbing days over three months for bibliography, roughly the same as for the routes mentioned above, and concludes from this that bibliography is not difficult. Right from the start he felt good about bibliography and found new solutions for two key points.
I know I can climb 9c, but for a route of this grade, a 9c route has to be much more difficult than the 9b + routes I've already scored - and bibliography isn't.
Stefano Ghisolfi
What does Alex Megos say about this devaluation? We got the latest episode of yesterday BETA for Action Talk TV shot and talked to Alex Megos about a potential devaluation. The show will go online shortly - stay tuned.
That might interest you
- Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Change (9b +) in Flatanger
- Climbing area Laghel closed: With the dream of the 9c route for Stefano Ghisolfi
- Video: Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Perfecto Mundo (9b +) in Margalef
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Jan Novak Photography